I didn't realize the lights were going to be on. I set it on the track and I saw them light and blow. I have never had that problem before intentionally. I have forgotten about the bulbs and turned them on and blew them out but have never fried a decoder or function output that way. Oh well it was only $9.99 lost.
alco's forever!!!!! Majoring in HO scale Minorig in O scale:)
Don't ever just "let the bulbs blow" In the process they usually take the decoder with them. Most of the time it's just the function outputs that get damaged but it can potentially dmage other parts of the decoder. Either install the LEDs when you install the decoder, or leave the lights off until you are ready to go back and add the LEDs.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I figured it was going to blow the bulbs. I was not worried about that as I replace with led anyway. The decoder never touched the metal as when I disconnected the board and installed the chip it stood straight up. It was dead upon arrival. I got a refund from the seller. It might be a issue of this particular decoder did not get reset to address 3 properly. I will have to track someone down to see if we can read the address and reset it.
Bought these particular ones because they were under 10.00 with free shipping.
A proper decoder for those locos replaces the circuit board that's screwed to the weight, and does not require any external resistors for the lights. Here's a link to the Digitrax one, the DH165L0.
Detailed instructions for installing it, including recommendations for how to insulate it from the frame, can be found here.
I have installed a couple of the prior version of that decoder, the DH163L0, into a P2K GP30 and a P2K GP9, and if those instructions are followed they work just fine (without external resistors).
You are missing the resistors for the low voltage light bulbs. It helps to research a little before plugging a decoder into a loco. There are decoders specific for locos such as these. As far as no motor control is it possible that parts of the decoder touched the metal frame or weight? These are not Digitrax but they work great for P2K. http://tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Products/Decoders/HO-Scale/LL-Series/LL8/LL8.html
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
I have a proto 2000 gp-30 and gp7 and also have 2 digitrax dn 143ip? decoders that should plug right into the board. I plugged it in and blew out the bulbs and got no response from the decoder. What else do I need to do to convert these to dcc? There is a board that is screwed to the metal weight that has a bunch of resistors? This has pins that face upward that goes into another board where all the wires connect into. I figured just connect the digitrax into that board with all the wires and I would be good. What am I missing?
Thanks
Mike