I know it's not the in thing to do anymore, but I highly recommend practically every model railroader own (and read and refer to) a book on model railroad wiring.
The books do a far better job of explaining reversing sections, turnout wiring, power routing turnouts, etc., than we can ever hope to do on this forum. They have much nicer diagrams and give the basic understanding and terminology necessary to wire layouts.
One such book is Easy Model Railroad Wiring, 2nd Edition by Andy Sperando (http://www.kalmbachstore.com/12207.html). The older Westcott book - out of print, but often found used - is equally good for DC layouts. If you use Atlas wiring components, their wiring book is written at a very easy level.
just my thoughts, your choices
Fred W
richg1998,rrinker, hamltnblue thanks for your knowledge and answers, I 'll keep my circuit open until I understand this thing of "reversing loop"
Regards from Mexico!
Just so you know what's happening sirkam follow the track. Start on one side and put your finger on the inside track. Now follow it through the section to the other side. You'll find your finger winds up on the outside track. This is why you had a short.
Now that you're running it's time to get some color on the layout and a couple of buildings.
Good Luck and have fun.
Springfield PA
The NMRA needs to get more search engine optimized - I searched and searched for a picture of an oval with the slash like the OP's and couldn't find one, so I had to resort to the 'loop' version. I know the Atlas books have a plan like that, in one of the older beginner plan books it was liek the 3rd plan - first an oval, then an oval with sidings, then an oval with a return connection.
Sirkam, you'll find peopel of all skill levels here. Many like you are just starting their first layout, or are perhaps building their first 2-rail layout after having used Lionel - the three rail Lionel trains do not have this short problemw ith that track arrangment. Others of us have been doing this for a long long time, in my case, if you count family photo and movie evidende of me operating an HO train at 2 years of age, more than 40 years. I've built many layouts over those years - none of us just 'knew' this stuff, so don;t be discouraged, follow along, and the experience you gain with each step will serve you as you expand and hopefully continue with all the possibilities this great hobby has to offer.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Store the below link in Favorites. One of the diagrams is like the one you show but without the sidings.
It is a little over halfway down the page.
http://www.nmra.org/beginner/wiring.html
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Wow! I'm impressed with your knowledge, I supose that I must have more experience this is my first layout and I did't know anything about the reverse loop. I'll leave the circuit without a piece (yes, It worked)
And maybe later fix the problem
Thank you very much
If ytou would like to keep the option to change the direction of the train like that, you need to add gaps in the track and wire it like shown on this site under "Reverse Loop": http://www.building-your-model-railroad.com/model-railroad-wiring.html
The easiest place to put the gaps (or you can buy plastic rail joiners that provide the required insulation) would be to the left and right of the white arrow, where the track connects to the turnouts. You need 4 insulated joiners, one in each rail at each end. You will also need to feed power in the middle, where the white arrow is.
To duplicate what is shown on the site, you will need one double pole double throw switch(DPDT). The output from your power pack must be split. One feed will go directly fromt he power pack to the center near the white arrow. The other section will go to the DPDT switch as shown on the linked site - the switch will need the corners wired in an X pattern as shown. This will feed the rest of the layout, where the power pack currently hooks up.
If it shorts when the loco enters the middle part, flip the toggle switch. When the loco is in the middle, you will need to again flip the toggle switch so the train can continue out without shorting.
An alternative to getting a toggle switch is to use the Atlas wiring components. They have various switches that are pre-wired to handle things like this, they have a book called "The Complete Atlas Wiring Book" that is designed to help beginners figure this all out. If it's like their older books there are plenty of pictures showing what connects where.
Removing just one piece of track will solve your problem.
There ARE ways to isolate this section of track electrically while keeping your track plan as it is, but I concur with another post that you should probably gain some experience first.
Hi!, thank you for the answer, Should I remove the entire line (pointed with the white arrow)? or should I remove only a small piece of track? (3" i.e.)
I really liked this circuit and I'd hate it to leave it incomplete
Thanx
Here's the track that is causing the problem and should be removed
Welcome to the forums
Your problem isn't an open circuit but a short.
You see where the track in the middle that crosses over to the other side and hooks back in? That's called a reversing section.
Remove it and your short will clear.
For beginning I suggest you don't use a reversing section until you get your feet wet and into the hobby some more.
Hi everybody, I hope youy can help me with this beginner trouble.
A few days ago I bought the ecesary tracks to arm the following circuit:
As you can see in the red spots my circuit is open and I supose that those open circuits are the reason because my loco don't run the problem is that I actually don't know how to wire the tracks for make my loco run I hope you can help me
sorry my bad english
Thank you