After reading all the posts for my question about the MRC Tech 6. Thanks to all that replied. I have looked further and checked out the MRC Prodigy Express and the NCE Power Cab. Leaning toward the NCE vs. MRC. Anyone have any experience with either, good or bad. I've been buying and collecting for decades now I need to get started before I get too much older and can't do it. I have various sound equipped locos, a couple Blueline and Brass no sound just straight DC. don't plan on running but a couple locos at one time so amperage shouldn't be a problem. Just wanted to know how these two stack up against the Tech 6 as it looks like a nice system but from the replies limited abilities.
Thank you, Steve
Steve,
I'm confused!!!! Are you running dc and dcc?? The prodigy and Nce systems I thought were dcc only
Frank
Like you, I was a little reserved getting into DCC. However, I chose the NCE PowerCAB system because of the portability of my small N scale layout. I could build the DCC system into my layout. No huge power booster or anything like that. Plus, I could program the system how I wanted, unlike the Tech 6. For the price of the Tech 6, you could get a decent NCE on eBay like I did.
I've bought the Power Cab when it first came out at the beginning of '06 and have been very happy with it. I find it very intuitive to use and enjoy the one-handed speed control of the thumbwheel or gross and fine speed buttons. I also like the walkaround portability of the Power Cab - albeit tethered - as it allows me some freedom to follow my train around the layout.
Since the Power Cab is the command station, booster, and throttle all rolled-up-into-one, if you disconnect the Power Cab from the PCP panel, the layout will shut down. It's never been a big deal to me. That's what makes the Power Cab so portable. With an extra PCP panel, you can program a decoder either at your layout...or your work bench...or your friend's house.
I now have my Power Cab connected to an NCE Smart Booster (SB3a). This gives me more power (amps) for my layout and I can now disconnect and connect the Power Cab to the UTP panels around my layout without shutting it down.
Steve, between the two systems you've mentioned, the Power Cab has a better upgrade path. If you'd like to read an initial review of the Power Cab (including pictures), click on this link or go to the Review page of my web site below. You will also find a review of the NCE CAB-04p throttle and original and updated Smart Booster.
Hope that helps...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Not sure that I understand your question.
First off I have had my power Cab for almost 4 years now. I have upgraded and added extra throttles.
I have always been able to get support via phone when needed. This has happend only twice, when I did not find the information on line.
For me the Power Cab is the best bang for the buck ! The system is easy to use and understand.
Back to me not understanding your question- If you have only DC locomotives why are you looking at DCC systems? Are you going to convert to DCC, as I also see you said something about a Tech 6.
Could you expand a bit on your needs and or wants?
from what i have read you need a 5 amp booster with the sb3a smart booster, did you go that way? or can you just go with the sb3a. did your recall capacity increase to 6 from 2
KHM,
Are you asking if you need a 5A wall transformer with the Smart Booster (SB3a)? If so, yes. Either the Magna Force MF615 or NCE P515 will do the trick.
If you are asking whether you need an additional booster with the SB3a - no, you don't. The SB3a is both a 5A booster and command station. You can plug any NCE throttle into it (e.g. Power Cab, ProCab, CAB-04or -05, etc.) and run trains.
Recall capacity does increase from 2 to 6 addresses with the SB3a and you can dictate the number of address slots between 2 and 6 that you want in your recall stack. (I find that 2 or 3 is quite sufficient for me, as it takes less time to cycle through the addresses when switching between locomotives.) Total cab capacity also increases from 2 to 4 throttles. You can read the specifics on my SB3a review page.
I have BLI, Walthers and Blueline with sound, Brass and assorted Athearn, bachmann, etc without sound. I have BLI Paragon and some of the first BLI locos out that I assume I need a DCC system with. I really don't intens to run DCC as it's my layout /12x25 with three levels. I just want to run the trains and hear the ones with sound, and run the ones w/o sound at different times. I'm not an electronic person and try to keep it simple but want enough power and a walkaround for the best price possible that I could hookup my self and not have to worry about extensive electrical knowledge needed.
Tom"
I think the NCE Powercab might be what I need. I just want to run the BLI, Walthers and other sound equipped locos and to be able to hear the sounds without having to install the BLI Sound Module for the Paragon and other locos I have and then If I run the couple Blueline locos put in a differnt module needed as the two are different in some way plus hear the other manufacturers locos as well. I assume I don't need anything additional to hear the sounds and functions as the Powercab will do it all. Please someone correct me if I'm wrong. I could continue running the sound equipped locos in DC and use the modules if I can't do all the functions with the Powercab. I rather have one unit that can do it all without spending a ton of money on it. Retirement is fun but the income less so have to watch what I want and get more to what I actually need.
Thank you,
Steve
The Power Cab will handle the sound functions for you: F1-F28. The only thing it will NOT do is operate a DC-only locomotive. Each locomotive must have a decoder installed in it to operate with the Power Cab. So, if your Bluelines are w/o decoders, you'll need to add decoders to them.
By the way, the decoders needed for bluelines are very cheap and pretty easy to install. Also wiring a layout for DCC is actually easier than DC.
Springfield PA
Thank you to all that gave advice for the DCC power packs. I think I'm better to go with the NCE Power Cab to start, looks like it's sort of Idiot proof and thats what I need. I found a couple places that seem to have pretty good prices, I'll check our local Columbus Ohio shops maybe they have them too. I can always run DC locos and the couple Blue Line on a different level, top one is for other than Pennsy. I hope I can run different levels with one Power cab, that's probably one of the things I need to ask the company rep. As Hamltnblue said I can add decoders to the Blue Lines if needed, and Tstage said DC can't run with it, I can use the brass other places I guess as adding decoders to them would be an electrical nightmare for me. I can work the small stuff out as you all answered my questions.
Thank you all for the assistance.
tstage if i understand you correctly there are 2 different sb3a's (1 is a smart boster and the other is a dumb booster?) if so why would i buy the smart booster?
If your choice is between Prodigy Express and NCE PowerCab - get the PowerCab.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
KHM60 tstage if i understand you correctly there are 2 different sb3a's (1 is a smart boster and the other is a dumb booster?) if so why would i buy the smart booster?
There's the Smart Booster (SB3a) and there's the Dumb Booster (DB3a). The SB3a is a combination command station and 5A booster. When the SB3a is used in conjunction with the Power Cab, it does the following:
OTOH, the DB3a is just a 5A booster and nothing more. It has no "intellence", can not act alone, and must be connected to a SB3a. A DB3a is used when you need additional power for power districts. This is done by daisy-chaining one or more DB3as to a SB3a.
If desired, an SB3a can be manually switched to "booster-only" mode, which essentially turns it into a DB3a. A DB3a can only be used as a DB3a. The SB3a can also be used as a 5A booster on another DCC system. This requires it to be switched to "booster-only" mode.