The AR-1 should work fine with the PowerCab, since it it toally adjustable as to trip current. On the absolute lowest setting it's pretty much unusable - a wet finger pressed to the gaps will trip it. At maximum it should work with O scale and high power boosters.
The click is all but inaudible, and it flips fast enough that my friend's little scratch built N scale Camelbacks don't even blink rolling through the loop.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
G1techguy Sorry guys, forgot to tell you, I'm operating DCC, and I have the NCE Power Cab(this is what it is... http://www.ncedcc.com/component/virtuemart/?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=3&category_id=1 ) So will the digitrax thing work?
Sorry guys, forgot to tell you, I'm operating DCC, and I have the NCE Power Cab(this is what it is... http://www.ncedcc.com/component/virtuemart/?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=3&category_id=1 ) So will the digitrax thing work?
As Randy says, it is super easy and automatic.
I have four AR-1 units on my layout which is DCC, an NCE 5 amp PH-Pro system.
Incidentally, Power Cab users have had issues with the PSX-AR, so stick with the AR-1. The AR-1 is half the price of the PSX-AR, and it is easier to set up and operate. I have never had to adjust any of my AR-1 units out of the box.
Some will tell you that the PSX-AR is faster to react to reverse polarity than the AR-1. Suffice it to say that the AR-1 is fast. It flips the polarity immediately. Some will tell you that there is an audible click from the AR-1 when it reverses polarity because it is not solid state. I cannot hear the click, but if it bothers you, then stick the unit under the layout or in a structure.
Rich
Alton Junction
[quote user="yankee flyer"]
I agree that the Power Cab will trip before the AR1 that is why I use the toggles with my Power Cab.
Thats the way it is.
Lee
Yeah,....WHAT?
Ummm....let's pretend for a moment that I'm a little more than slow, AND that I have absolutely NO idea what your talking about.
Thanks
Trev
T
Just when you thought your layout was done, it's time to expand!
You guys are nothing but efficient!!! Thanks for all your help! If anything, I'm nothing but slow. I have to upgrade my hamster. LOL. I do have that figured out now, and it looks like the digitrax one will work,...according to thier website, anyway. now i have to solve the problem of the 4% grade and the tunnel thats to high........I'll explain later.
Thanks again for all your help and ideas.
The Power Cab is a low power system. Not all DCC auto-reversers will work. You need to get something that can trip at 2 amps or less.
Research the reversers mentioned on their web sites. Here is one link that may help.
http://www.dccspecialties.com/
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
SUper easy, and automatic. If you make a basic reverse loop, straight leg of th turnout loops around to teh diverging leg of the turnout, what you need is 4 rail gaps, 2 in the straight leg and 2 in the diverging leg. All rail feeders for track int he loop, that is, track between the gaps, goes to the output side of an autoreverser like the Digitrax AR-1. The input to the autoreverser comes from the track bus that powers the rest of the layout. The AR-1 has a single knob to adjust the sensitivity that might need some tweaking to work with all your locos smoothly, but otherwise operation is entirely automatic. All you have to do is remember the throw the switch. Or you can make it a spring switch so the train always goes in one way and comes out the other, but you don't have to do anything, just keep moving.
It's that simple in DCC because the 'polarity' of the DCC signal has no bearing on the direction the loco moves. WHen you change the polarity on a DC loco, it reverses direction, With DCC, the direction is controlled by the command sent to the loco, not the track polarity.
G1techguy Okay, so here I am again yanging about reverse loops, I finally understand how they work, but what i want is that I don't want to have to throw any switches or flip toggles, is there not a machine that does it for me, I guess I'm kinda lazy. Is there such a machine and if so, where can I get it? Price is not an issue. Thanks.
Okay, so here I am again yanging about reverse loops, I finally understand how they work, but what i want is that I don't want to have to throw any switches or flip toggles, is there not a machine that does it for me, I guess I'm kinda lazy. Is there such a machine and if so, where can I get it? Price is not an issue. Thanks.
Are you operating in DC or DCC? In DCC, you can use an auto-reverse unit in place of a toggle switch.
There is a running battle on this forum between the AR-1 and the PSX-AR. I have four AR-1 units on my layout, and I am pleased with the results.
Not sure what your operating system is , but I will be using a Digitrax AR-1 that is hooked to both the reverse rails and the main power bus. Both ends of the reverse section will have plastic rail joiners for isolation. Thats the plan anyway. I am about 2 weeks ffrom that point.
Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
http://s1082.photobucket.com/albums/j372/curtwbb/
I don't know about automated solutions for DC layouts, but if you're using DCC there are several autoreversers on the market. I use Digitrax AR1's and they work fine.