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Intalling LED's in a Atlas Silver engine

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  • Member since
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  • From: Maryville IL
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Intalling LED's in a Atlas Silver engine
Posted by cudaken on Wednesday, February 9, 2011 5:34 PM

 Tony, one of the folks here is dropping by Thursday and would like me to install LED's in his Atlas Engines. I said sure fine, then it just dawn on me his engines must be Silvers (will run on DCC) and will have a PC board. I don't know which engines they are, just that they are MLK's I think.

 He run DC and is moving to DCC later. All the engines I have added LED's to I have hard wired the decoders. I am now using 1000 Ohm resistors with good luck. Will this work with his PC board? I think I still have 260 and 520 ohm resistors as well.

 Thank for the coming answers folks.

                        Ken

I hate Rust

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Posted by Train Modeler on Thursday, February 10, 2011 7:28 AM

Ken,

Check out the voltage for the power feeds(board or wires) using a meter.   If it's 3 volts, you really don't need any resistors.    If it's just under track voltage, then using 750 to 1000 ohms is OK, depending on actual amount.       Most boards today are configured for LEDs although Athearn for example uses a lot of 1.5V bulbs(which I prefer in certain applications). 

Richard

  • Member since
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  • From: St.,Louis,MO
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Posted by tony314 on Thursday, February 10, 2011 7:45 AM

Buying 2 maybe 3 more engines this weekend. Another MKT a NS and MAYBE a SP switcher with sound ( that one is still under debate )

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Posted by rrinker on Thursday, February 10, 2011 8:03 AM

 Pretty sure the Atlas SIlvers have LEDs already, simply plugging a decoder in should work fine, the already installed resistors will still be in the circuit. Only if you completely rip out the stoc circuit boards will you have to worry about resistors.

                     --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by cudaken on Thursday, February 10, 2011 8:25 AM

 Randy I am pretty sure there was a decoder in the engine when Tony bought it. Tony said it would run on DC or DCC. It may have a LED all ready in it as stated. I have not seen the engines yet.

      Ken

I hate Rust

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Posted by tony314 on Thursday, February 10, 2011 8:32 AM

My 2 MKT's now are Atlas master loco series and have incandescent bulbs and pre installed DCC

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  • From: Heart of Georgia
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Posted by Doughless on Thursday, February 10, 2011 9:39 AM

This thread caught my eye.

Tony must have some GP40's of about 2003 vintage.  I have some 38's of roughly the same time frame, a 4 function decoder and regular bulbs.  Yes, they are called Master Line.  Some time ago, Atlas switched to gold and silver labeling terms and dropped the 4 function decoder from the silver line, which are now just "DCC Ready".  Interestingly, about 2006 and before the switch in to Silver line, Atlas ran some 38/40's with both the 4 function decoder and LED's installed.   (A MKT gp38 included!)

So the question would be :  Did Atlas change the 4 function decoder to include more DC resistance when they began installing LED's in the later runs, or did the existing 4 function decoder design already have enough resistance for the installation of factory LED's?  I don't know.  (Big help huh)  I suspect there is greater than 50% chance you should be able to install LED's straight into the locomotive as it is.

I have an extra LED left from a pair where I blew one out trying to install it in an existing pc board.  Since having an odd number of LED's is marginally useful to me, tonight, I'll take my extra LED and place it in one of my 2002 vintage 38's and see if it blows.  I'll report my results here later tonight or tomorrow.  I run only DC so my result will be from that perspective.

 A crude way of experimenting, I know.  I like Rich's way better, but I don't own a meter.

 

- Douglas

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Posted by richg1998 on Thursday, February 10, 2011 11:16 AM

Here is a useful link for DCC lighting some of you need. I see comments from some who do not really understand the differences with 12 volt bulbs, 1.5 volt bulbs and LED's. Bulbs are voltage devices. LED's are current devices.

http://www.mrdccu.com/

Pay attention the the Curriculum section and lighting. Store the link. You will refer to it often. This fellow use to own Litchfield Station for DCC.

Rich


If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.

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Posted by Doughless on Thursday, February 10, 2011 2:24 PM

richg1998

Here is a useful link for DCC lighting some of you need. I see comments from some who do not really understand the differences with 12 volt bulbs, 1.5 volt bulbs and LED's. Bulbs are voltage devices. LED's are current devices.

http://www.mrdccu.com/

 

Pay attention the the Curriculum section and lighting. Store the link. You will refer to it often. This fellow use to own Litchfield Station for DCC.

Rich

 

Thanks for the link Rich.  You potentially saved me some real bucks.

I didn't realize that a blown LED could take down a decoder too.  Hmmm....more fussiness.  Since I'm a DC guy with an Aristo Train Engineer control system, I have no use for the Atlas dual mode decoder; however, after I replace the factory decoder with a standard analog PC board, I can usually get $10-$15 on the secondary market for the decoder.  I'm ok with ruining a stray LED on an experiment, but I wouldn't want to cost myself THAT much potential income by frying the digital board. 

Therefore, no crude experiments here.  Sorry Ken and Tony

- Douglas

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Posted by Hamltnblue on Thursday, February 10, 2011 3:14 PM

Should have LED's in them. Sometimes they're not bright white and may be mistaken for Incadesecnt.  Here's a link to a tsunami install guide showing an Atlas B23-7.  It has amber led's

http://www.soundtraxx.com/documents/appnotes/Atlas%20B23-7.pdf

Springfield PA

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Posted by cudaken on Thursday, February 10, 2011 3:55 PM

 Guys, thank you for all you answers and time!

 First of off, they where light bulbs and where very dim. I used 1000 ohm resistors, red wire is - and wire black is +. Installation went smoothly. LED's sure made a differences.

 Far as the quality of the engines? I am not impressed at this point. While the motors look great, did not like the little ears on the drive shafts. When we first ran the engines one was making a racket ( only a few hours of them) I oiled it and it help. When installing the LED on that engine Tony saw the front drive shaft was not hooked to the front truck. When I pulled the front weight to get to the truck I found the motor mount was busted (No, I did not break it) and both trucks had way to much slop in them.

 Tony is taking it back to K-10 to see if they can repair it. I would have fixed it, but Tony was having a major tooth ache and had to go.

 Thanks again for all your time and answers.

          Ken

I hate Rust

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