I just finished putting up a shelf layout and built my first outside loop. I have tested the loop extensively finding that I get the correct voltage every place that I check. I purchased a brand new sd40-2 loco and am having issues with it running. The loco stops even though there is a good voltage, but if I slightly lift up the outside edge of the track it runs fine. I have also found that if I gently push down on the edge of the loco it runs as well. The track is level and it does this all the way around the track. My question is what are the possible issues? I have put some folded paper around half of the track and the loco runs with no issue. Is the loco faulty, is there something wrong with my track setup? Anyone had this issue before? Thanks for your help.
That's a "tuffy" without being able to be there in person but my first suggestion would be to place the engine on a piece of "glass" to make sure that both trucks are properly level as it sunds as though you are loosing contact.
This is where a set of gauges are invaluable..........
Mark
What do you mean a set of gauges?
Here are some pictures of the setup and the loco. I set it on the board and it does look like it leans to one side. Is there some way to fix that or do I need to send it back in?
http://img4.imageshack.us/i/dsc01508on.jpg/
http://img87.imageshack.us/i/dsc01509z.jpg/
http://img197.imageshack.us/i/dsc01511zt.jpg/
Ammeter and voltage gauges to keep track of the track power used and/or "opens" and "shorts"...........
So you have something hooked up all the time instead of just having an ammeter on hand?
Well, have you tried putting the engine on the track?
But seriously, folks...
Here's some key questions based on what I've observed in your photos...
1. How many power feeders do you have going to the track?
2. Are your track joints soldered? And if not, are the track connections snug?
3. Are the contact wipers on the trucks making solid contact with the pick up strips under the walkways of the locomotive?
4. Is the track just laying there loose, or do you have it fastened to the panel with either track nails or glue?
All of these factors may be causing your problem. If the stall happens at the same place, then the problem is with the track. If the stall happens randomly at different parts of the layout, the problem is with the engine. Just use a little deductive reasoning, and you'll find the gremlin.
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net
I have put the loco on the track and tried running it. It happens all over the track so I do not believe it to be the track. I have not soldered or glued or anything like that, I am still trying to determine what the layout will be before I do that. It does appear that the loco is leaning to one side a little bit. Is that something that can be fixed or do I need to send it in?
Also, I only have one power feeder to the track, is that not enough? When do you add more, do you bring them off the same terminals?
Thanks again.
Okay... The first golden rule of smooth running N scale is to make sure your trackwork is solidly installed. If you're using sectional track, every track joint is a potential problem.
At the same time, the other requirement is to run quality locomotives. You have a Kato SD40-2, which is top of the line. But you need to make sure it's ready to run.
There are two phosphor bronze wipers that run the length of the engine under each side. They carry the current from the wipers on the trucks to the frame, and thence to the motor. If the engine is leaning to one side, it sounds like something might be out of alignment on the engine.
Check the wipers on the trucks and make sure they are making good contact with the strips. If the strip is not directly over the wiper, or is being pinched either inside or outside the wiper, that's your issue. You can easily take care of this yourself with a small jewelers screwdriver, or the tip of a hobby knife. That should do the trick.
Re: Track feeders... The best way to assure that you're getting all the juice you need to the track is to run a power bus wire from the power pack around the bottom of the platform, more or less under the track. This should be 12 gauge wire. I use the black/red speaker wire they sell at Radio Shack. I think a 50' roll is about $7.
Then, about every 36" along the track, add a set of terminal wires (the kind pre-soldered to the track joiners work, but you can easily make your own if you're handy with a soldering iron.) You want to make sure you identify the inside and outside rail feeders, so you don't accidentally wire something backwards. I use 18 gauge (lighter than the bus wire... wire gauge gets thicker as the number gets smaller) wire from the auto parts store to make my drops, using white and black.
Then I wire the white feeders to the red bus line, and black to black. (I save red feeders for reversing circuits and power routing turnouts)
You can see my bus wire and drops on the section in the back. It sounds a lot harder than it is. But once you have this set up, and your engine wipers situated, you should have no trouble with stalling.
Sounds like you have your electrical setup fine, and that is a top quality Kato engine, no doubt. Here are a couple of tips from problems I've had before, I am a fellow N scale railroader also.
I have had other engines from Atlas (in the 1990s) and older Life-Like that I have purchased new and found that they have too much oil in the mechanism from the manufacturer. This should not be a problem with a Kato, but check to make sure it is not a problem under the body shell. Use a q-tip, coffee filter or small light sponge to remove any excess oil, if you do see it running off or streaking. I have never had that problem with a Kato engine, but might want to check for it just in case.
I checked your pictures also. Hopefully you don't, but you may have a small radius curve problem with a tight radius curve on the tracks that your SD40-2 engine may not be able to handle those tight curves. I use smaller engines because I have very tight curve radius on my tracks and a very small table layout. I can not run a Bachmann N scale 2-8-0 engine or any modern era large Kato diesel locomotives because I have such a very small radius curve. They will bind up or stop or derail. There is no way I could ever have a bachmann 4-8-2, or that sweet new Kato SP GS4 Daylight 4-8-4 with large drivers. I tried a friends Bachmann 4-8-2 and it would not go. I have a small Atlas Shay and an old Atlas-Roco 0-6-0T and a Proto 0-8-0. The 0-8-0 runs with short trains, the 8 wheel drive has a bit of curve trouble. If you want a great quality Burlington Northern modern era engine maybe try an Atlas GP38 or GP40 to see how it handles our tracks curve radius. Just a few thoughts to check out.
Paul
If you can't buy it, BUILD IT!
I don't believe its your track-I don't use feeders 90% of the time and have no issues..
It sounds like your SD40-2 have faulty electrical pickup or a warp truck...I would contact Kato and advise them of the problem.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
This is a problem that I have had with the Kato engines too, as I have two of those same engines. The problem lies when you take off one or both of the trucks under the engine. The knobs for the electrical pickup should go on the outside (i.e. the outside corners) of the little black bumps on the engine itself when you replace the trucks. I'm guessing you took off the trucks to clean or do something.
The other concern is the middle wheel on each truck is spring. This is a neat concept, especially in N scale, but it can cause problems if you're not aware of it. It bounces up and down depending on the grade of the grade, even with minute differences. It's designed that way to help keep electrical contact with the track. If the springs are compromised, then they won't make contact with the track.
Like I said, when you look in between the top of each truck (i.e. the part with the wheels) and the bottom of the engine, you should see a brass contact "bump" or strip that contacts a brass strip. This is the electrical pickup from the wheels. It should be full and in view. If you notice black there in any way shape or form instead of the brass, the truck is on wrong. A sure way to pick apart this problem is the pick up the engine and look at the front or rear truck. If they are canted in any way, the truck is on wrong.
A way to fix it is to get a very small screwdriver and gently make sure the brass bump is on the outside of the black bump. This will make sure the trucks are seated correctly.
Good luck.
I can't believe Kato is still using that troublesome electrical pickup scheme of the long strip and friction contacts with the trucks.
I have two of thier HO scale models that used the same system. It was so unreliable that I eventually soldered wires directly to the truck sideframes and the decoder, bypassing Kato's system altogether.
Of course, doing this with an N scale model is going to be much more difficult.