Thanks for the replies folks. I think I am going to stick with the large barrier( terminal) strips to connect the ends as I can disconnect and isolate sections if I have any trouble-shooting to do. Actually, the No. 10 is stiff but not that bad if I use holes drill in the benchwork or hooks in some places. And since it is solid, I can also bend it and hold it in place. I have a large basement layout in progress and No. 10 has been used by other modelers including those on the Model Railroader staff. I believe they use No. 10 bus wire on the Kalmbach Club Layout too.
Funny you should ask.
A couple of weeks ago I ripped down the layout to re-build. A piece of the wire is still attached to the plywood.
Springfield PA
HamltnblueActually I should have said mine was 8 bare copper. I just ripped the layout down in the last couple of weeks. New benchwork is almost complete.
retsignalmtr A Western Union splice on a #10 or #8 wire would be about 4 inches long and due to the wire size may need a propane torch to heat the wire when soldering. Why the heavy wire? My 200 amp electric service is 3/0 copper and is being fed from the transformer by a #8.
A Western Union splice on a #10 or #8 wire would be about 4 inches long and due to the wire size may need a propane torch to heat the wire when soldering. Why the heavy wire? My 200 amp electric service is 3/0 copper and is being fed from the transformer by a #8.
No real reason for the wire being 8 gauge. I wanted to run a bare wire bus and it's the first thing I ran across at the electrical supply house. After stapling the bus down I can tell you that over 20 feeder splices took less than an hour to do. (not including soldering to the track)
As noted earlier for the new layout I'll be using #12 bare copper for the bus. It should take a bit less heat to solder.
mobilman44 An excellent end to end splice is the "Western Union" splice, which has been in industrial use for a long time. Basically, bend the stripped end of the two wires into an "L", hook them to each other, and wind each end around the long part of that particular wire. Solder the connection, and if you are using shrink tubes for insulation, make sure you have them strung on the wire before you make the joint. I learned this in a 1961 auto electric shop course at Lane Technical High School - Chicago. Sadly, most of what else was taught only applies to pre '58 vehicles................. ENJOY!
An excellent end to end splice is the "Western Union" splice, which has been in industrial use for a long time. Basically, bend the stripped end of the two wires into an "L", hook them to each other, and wind each end around the long part of that particular wire. Solder the connection, and if you are using shrink tubes for insulation, make sure you have them strung on the wire before you make the joint.
I learned this in a 1961 auto electric shop course at Lane Technical High School - Chicago. Sadly, most of what else was taught only applies to pre '58 vehicles.................
ENJOY!
Ah, the memories!
I learned the Western Union splice (both long and short types) in electric shop at Hubbard High in Chicago, not quite 10 years later than you ('69 - '70).
It's amazing how the good stuff withstands the test of time...
If soldering or crimping doesn't suit you, a split bolt connector will do the trick. Home depot has them in the electrical department.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100138264/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Actually I should have said mine was 8 bare copper. I just ripped the layout down in the last couple of weeks. New benchwork is almost complete. I got tired of using a lift-out between 2 sections and decided to move things around in the basement and go with a single piece layout. I'll probably use bare copper again but go with number 12 this time.
Mine is solid copper wire used for ground rods. It's pretty inexpensive at electrical supply houses. I ran a pair about 6 inches or so apart and soldered the feeders to it. No stripping needed. Many get a chill when they hear about a bare wire buss 6 inches apart but fail to understand that the track is the same thing and much closer. Needless to say the quarter test works fine.
Must be a big layout. Our club modular is over 110 feet if all modules are used, about 14 feet wide, and nothing bigger than #12 was used. Works fine.
To be honest, I can;t imagine pulling #8, especially if it was SOLID around under a layout. #12 solid is enough of a pain that I only use stranded for such things. Free #8 - I think I'd still spend the money for a more reasonable size.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Hamltnblue I used number 8 wire and soldered using a solder gun. A standard 30 watt iron might not put out enough heat for large gauge splices.
I used number 8 wire and soldered using a solder gun. A standard 30 watt iron might not put out enough heat for large gauge splices.
#8 and #10??? Seems pretty heavy gauge wire.
Larry
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Inline splice connectors (butt) crimped on is what I use. Electrical supply houses Home Depot or lowes will have them.
That should not be a problem.
I use butt splices from Home Depot. I have used them for many years in industrial wiring but I have a good pair of Klein linesman pliers that are excellent for crimping these splices. The tool is heavy enough to use as a hammer. Every electrician I have ever met has at least two of these pilers in his tool bag.
The main issue is with people who are in a hurry and do a lousy crimp.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
I wrap them as they would look inside a Marrett and solder them. Fool proof.
Crandell
That's exactly how I would do it. It's a better connection than wire nuts, and the wire nuts are acceptable for for up to 600 volts, so it should be good for DCC.
John Fallon (an electrician)
If everybody is thinking alike, then nobody is really thinking.
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For those of you using this size of copper, solid bus wire, how are you making an end to end splice?
I attached the two ends on a heavy duty barrier (terminal) strip after bending "C" hooks in them. They won't be going anywhere. Is this good enough for DCC?