First of all, thanks for the replies and the welcoming committee.
To wjstix: No, I did not put the decoder in another engine. I put another decoder in the engine with same results. On an E-Z Command, to turn on/off the lights, you need to activate the Function Button, then press #10. To change the brightness, the Function Button must be activated, then press #1. Yes, the lights working on their own is strange.
To locoi1sa: An E-Z Command can't reset or change CV's. The only thing you can do with an E-Z Command is speed, direction, sound and turn on/off lights (unless I'm missing something but the instructions specifically state this). Anyway, we'll go with your last couple of sentences. I changed out the decoder (again) and it worked like a champ. I even ran it a few laps with wires dangling off the side. Lights worked with on/off, bright/dim and direction. So I assumed the original decoder was fried. I even had a family member witness it working properly. I put the shell on and guess what, front/back lights on, back to the same problem. I loosened the screws that hold the shell on the frame, still had lights and no control of them. I took the screws completely out, loosened the shell from the body so that it was on but not tight. It worked fine. So, you are probably right about the undue stress/compression on the decoder. I just got done running it for an hour, turning lights on/off, dimming/brightness and direction. Working so far and will leave the screws out. Going to bed, will see what happens tomorrow. I'm beginning to think it's possessed.
Thanks to both for your replies and suggestions
Inspired by Addiction
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PC99.
to the forum. The problem could all stem from the decoder. Try a reset CV8=8 first or sometimes CV30=2 will reset most decoders. Do this with the shell on and the lights messed up. If the decoder resets back to original default settings the lights will be directional. Another thing that messes up newer decoders is having CV29 set for 14 speed steps and operating with 28 speed steps. It is best to set CV29 for 28 speed steps even if you only have 14 speed steps. Another thing to check is if the decoder is being compressed when the shell is on. The shell should not be putting undue stress and compression on the decoder. Just a little flexing and components can touch something they are not supposed to. Also make sure the pins on the 8 pin plug are not being pushed too far in and grounding on something when the shell is on.
I can not remember if the S3 is like the S1 in that the orange wire from the bottom motor brush is fastened to the frame. If so then heed this warning and make the easy change now before the decoder goes poof. http://www.tonystrains.com/tonystips/2001/120601.htm
Good luck
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Sorry if I missed this, but did you try the decoder in another engine. If you did accidently change a light setting in the decoder, it's in the decoder, not the DCC controller. If you put it in another engine and it works the same way, it's the decoder itself that's changed. BTW function zero controls lights on/off not 10; it's very odd if that doesn't turn the lights off and on regardless if they're set to be on all the time or change by direction of travel. If that's the case, the lights are apparently getting power directly from the track somehow.
First, I did a search and did not find a topic for my particular issue. If I missed it, please point me in the right direction.
I have a Proto 2000 HO Scale Alco S3 diesel locomotive. A few months ago, I decided to make the switch to DCC. I bought a Bachmann E-Z Command for the controller and since the loco was "dcc ready", I bought Bachmann 1 amp decoder with 8 pin plug. I followed the instructions from both Life-Like and Bachmann. During the upgrade, I removed the factory front & rear lights and installed Evan Designs LED lights (7-19 volts). The conversion went fine and everything worked great. I know this is the cheapest/most basic DCC, but everything (including 3 other locos) ran fine.
A few weeks ago, the loco started squeaking terribly. I took the loco apart, checked everything, cleaned what little dirt I found and lubed the worm gears and axles. During the cleaning and lube, I ran the engine several times for various lengths of times to see if the problem was corrected. After replacing the shell, I noticed the front & rear lights were on constantly. I figured something was compressing or pinching the wires to cause this. I took the shell off and the problem went away. I packaged the wiring a little neater and secured everything with electrical tape to prevent the shell from pinching anything. I even placed electrical tape on the metal frame between the wires to prevent contact. I replaced the shell, making sure nothing was pinched. The lights came back on. After several take aparts/put back togethers, the problem persisted. I did notice that the front light turned off when in reverse, however both lights are on in the forward direction and I cannot turn off the lights or dim them using the Function Control #10 or #1.
With this, I thought I caused the decoder to permanently recognize some strange signal to keep the lights on due to the take off the tracks/place on the tracks too many times with power to the controller and track. I installed a new/different decoder, ran the engine and operated the lights successfully. I replaced the shell and the problem came back. I even reprogrammed the engine to a different address. I unplugged the controller and left it sit, without power for several days, thinking whatever settings were last logged in, would erase. No success, when I plug in the controller, the front and rear lights come on, even without using the Function command.
I disconnected the decoder and looked for anything that could cause this. No loose wires, no loose pins, no bare spots that may cause this. I re-checked the wires for the lights to make sure they were in their correct spots. I even swapped the lights, thinking a resistor or rectifier got toasted. No matter what, the lights are on constantly, except when in reverse.
Yes, the track and wheels are clean. I cleaned them during the take apart/lube process. I use Goo Gone to clean my track and wheels.
Any recommendations/solutions would be great. If not, it really doesn't affect the operation of the loco and I'll just call the rear light a cab light. But it is discouraging that I cannot control the lights.