Well I finally have gotten the DCC running on my layout (NCE Power Cab) and today wired in an auto reverse module for a loop which works great. I do have a question regarding switches. I'm using Atlas switches with manual throws for now with non-powered frogs. My Trainmaster works great through switches (no hesitation) though when I run my Athearn GP-60 I get a hesitation and even stalls.
When running both Trainmaster and Athearn on the layout, the Athearn stalls at the same switch each time and causes my Trainmaster to stall out as well when it's on the other side of the layout in an area with no switches (so I'm assuming my Athearn hitting the switch is causing the problem). Does this mean I need to power my frogs or is there another reason why this is occurring? Thanks, Steve
Sounds more like a short, that's the only way BOTH locos would stop. Get yourself an NMRA gauge and check the wheels on the AThearn. Also there have been many instances of less than ideal power pickup on some newer Athearns, but that would cause a stall not a short. Either loco should easily make it over unpowered frogs even at a crawl without loosing power. When both stop, you should see a short indication on the PowerCab.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
This is an old bluebox Athearn, I"ll check for short, thanks!
One thing too on the old Athearn Blue box is to make sure you check the loco for good conductivity from the wheels to the motor. Sometimes where the truck fits ovet the king pin there can be some intereference--and that's just one of the many areas such as dirty wheels.
BTW, I have found dirty wheels to be the most likely cause with the older Athearn units as the metal they used seem to gather up grime pretty easily.
Richard
One of the places to look for a short is at the frog where the two rails of opposite polarity are very close together. A wheel of the loco may be bridging both of those rails at the same time causing a short circuit. Use a little paint or nail polish (which is stronger) to extend the insulation a little farther and see if this solves the problem.
Run the loco over the switch faster and see if it still happens.
Atlas turnouts are pretty good but often need some tuning. If the flanges are hitting at the spot noted above you can usually file it a little wider to fix the problem. I had to do it to a few of mine.
Here is the spot we're talking about:
Springfield PA
Thanks for all the help, hopefully I'll have time this week to tackle this. I do agree that the dirty wheels is a major culprit in conductivity problems, At first, the engine had some stuttering issues so I made sure to clean the wheels and the engine did indeed run better. My short is probably the switch since it only stalls out at one of the switches instead of all of them. Thanks, Steve
I have had some Atlas turnouts that seem to lose contact with the power contact at the pivot point due to the weight of the loco. Best fix I have is to put power feeders at all side of the turn out so no power is lost.
Eric97123 I have had some Atlas turnouts that seem to lose contact with the power contact at the pivot point due to the weight of the loco. Best fix I have is to put power feeders at all side of the turn out so no power is lost.
I have read this a few times here. What type of wire do you use for this and size? Also is it posibile for youto post some pics .Thanks
I get door bell wire at Home Depot, it is cheap and come twisted in red and white which is good so you dont cross up wires. It is solid core wire and I find it is easy to solder to rail joiners. I solder some rail joiners, drill a couple small holes to feed the wire through, join the track and then hook the wire up the bus/main power line.
I have some that look like the point bars may be aluminum. Is this possible? They are atlas.
Some of the older Athearn locomotives used "sintered iron" wheels. You can easily spot these because the treads are have a dull finish, unlike the shiny finish that nickel silver wheels. Replace those older ones with nickel silver ones. Any wheel with a rough finish is a collecting point for dirt.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
I model in N scale and have the same problem with locos stopping on switches and shutting down the whole layout because they are creating a short circuit on the frog. This never happened when my layout was DC. The DCC systems react much faster than DC power packs when they detect a short. Try the paint or nailpolish trick on the frog rails to extend the insulation a little. I have to redo it twice a year as a maintenance procedure.
retsignalmtr I model in N scale and have the same problem with locos stopping on switches and shutting down the whole layout because they are creating a short circuit on the frog. This never happened when my layout was DC. The DCC systems react much faster than DC power packs when they detect a short. Try the paint or nailpolish trick on the frog rails to extend the insulation a little. I have to redo it twice a year as a maintenance procedure.
I gauged my wheels on my bluebox Athearn and they seem to be fine. It looks like the engine is shorting out at each switch and shuts down the DCC. This didn't happen when running DC so it sounds like the problem that you're talking about. Should I use the polish to insulate the frog rails or file them (I'm assuming that both these steps prevent shorting between the frog rails)? Thanks, Steve
Just put a little dab on top of the rails about 1/4 inch long and let it dry. HO loco's are heavier than N loco's so you may have to build it up a little.
Having points go dead isn't that common. When a turnout is thrown there are 2 sources of power for the point. The pivot and the point rail itself since it contacts the main. In addition the loco crossing over the point actually makes the contact get better since is presses down on the pivot.
The Rail Zip will clean wheels/track and avoid binding, I've never seen this stuff before. Though my problem seems to be only my Athearn bluebox loco that short out at every switch in DCC. My Atlas works fine with no hesitation which makes me think it's a shorting problem that needs to be insulated or something; since I gauged the Athearn's wheels and they are fine.