Yes they are a pain to connect sometimes, but I've never had a problem with mine or seen anyone else who runs their locos ont he club layout have a problem where the connector interferes with the drawbar tot he point of causing derailments. Most of the BLI locos have 2 holes in the drawbar, one for realistic distance between the cab and tender, the other with alittle extra space for sharper radius curves. Mt T-1's will not run on my home layout (approx 24" minimum) witht he drawbar int he near hole, but they ran on my old layout, and on the club modular layout (30"+ radius) with absolutely no problem in the near hole. The real problem I think on my home layout is that the one curve where the lead truck derails with the drawbar in the near hole actually snuck down under 24" radius. ANd note is it the lead truck that comes off, the tender, no way. It's too heavy.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
If the loco needs resetting there is a reset button under the tender shell. Look in the manual or download the online manual from BLIs web site for instructions on its use. BLI will send repair parts if you want to tackle a repair yourself. There service department is very good.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
As noted it would typically be a connection issue. Paragon's even come with a paper insert to ensure the cables are fully seated.
There is a solution to the problem. All they have to do is copy the basic MTH design. They use a digital signal that passes throught the drawbar. I have 2 MTH steamers and 2 BLI's The MTH loco's take a couple of seconds to connect and work great. The BLI's have to be laid on the side etc and both drawbar and tender plugh have to be negotiated.
Springfield PA
Hi!
Two of my BLI steamers had the "tender to loco" connectivity problem. It seems there was plastic residue in a couple of the holes (that the plug pins are pushed into). I used the proper sized drill bit and turned it in a pin vise to clear it out. Do not use a bit larger than the hole, don't go down too deeply, and don't use a dremel or power device to drill.
It took me a bit to clear them, but once cleared they worked like a charm.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
selector I agree. 1. Lay loco and tender on their sides on a clean towel. Drawbar is not attached to tender. Tender is tilted away from you at a sufficient angle that you have a clear view and tool access to the receptacle under the cab of the T-1. 2. Using the open tines of the finest needle-nosed pliers you can buy, place a tine on either side of the wire tether. Each tine should make contact only with the outer edge of the plastic plug. Watch those wires! You do not want to pinch them. 3. Take ahold of the engine in such a way that you a) don't break or bend anything, and b) it doesn't scoot away from the force of the pliers. 4. Firmly and carefully press the tines against the back of the plug. It should slide a loooong way into that receptacle, past flush! The back of the plug should be close to 1/32" deeper than flush. And it should feel well seated. That is how to seat all the tethers on BLI's locomotives. No pliers? Then the blunt end of a bamboo kabob skewer and you'll have to alternate between pushing on one side of the back of the plug and then the other. It is a royal pain because the plug will want to rock with only one point applying pressure. That is why you should use two...as in needle-nosed pliers. Crandell
I agree.
1. Lay loco and tender on their sides on a clean towel. Drawbar is not attached to tender. Tender is tilted away from you at a sufficient angle that you have a clear view and tool access to the receptacle under the cab of the T-1.
2. Using the open tines of the finest needle-nosed pliers you can buy, place a tine on either side of the wire tether. Each tine should make contact only with the outer edge of the plastic plug. Watch those wires! You do not want to pinch them.
3. Take ahold of the engine in such a way that you a) don't break or bend anything, and b) it doesn't scoot away from the force of the pliers.
4. Firmly and carefully press the tines against the back of the plug. It should slide a loooong way into that receptacle, past flush! The back of the plug should be close to 1/32" deeper than flush. And it should feel well seated.
That is how to seat all the tethers on BLI's locomotives. No pliers? Then the blunt end of a bamboo kabob skewer and you'll have to alternate between pushing on one side of the back of the plug and then the other. It is a royal pain because the plug will want to rock with only one point applying pressure. That is why you should use two...as in needle-nosed pliers.
Crandell
Wish they could find a better way to connect
In addition to being a pain to seat even the non BLIs they interfere with the draw bar and raise hell going around turns and over switches causing the tender to derail
51% share holder in the ME&O ( Wife owns the other 49% )
ME&O
Almost certainly it's the plug not being fully seated. They are a real pain in the neck. If you select address 3 and hit the whistle or bell do the sounds come on? That would indicate the decoder is responding, but power is just not getting to the motor - that pesky plug.
Lefty
make doubly sure the connection between tender and engine is fully seated,thats the usuelly cause of this problem.
I have a new Paragon 2 Reading Steamer that i can't get to run on DCC. The sound comes on, but I can't get the locomotive to respond at address 3, which is supposed to be the factory default. Any ideas or does it have to go back for repairs?