I have managed to install my first decoder in an Atheran MP15AC and I have 2 questions.....can you use both the 1.5 volt and 12 volt function outputs at the same time? Also, I'd like to add an operating Mars light. Can anyone make a recommendations for the roof top detail? I would like to keep the size as close to prototypical as possible.
Side note....had to do some mods to the frame to mount the speaker, removed the front weight and mounting posts, "gooed" the enclosure to the old weight area. Was a tight fit but it looks and sounds great. Just started using the JMRI DecoderPro software to "tweak" the operation of the engine.
Thanks
To answer your first question, yes, you can use both 1.5 and 12 Volt outputs at the same time provided their combined current draw doesn't exceed the decoder's rated function output.
To what roof top detail are you referring? If you mean the mars light function, that would be a rotary beacon or flashing strobe, not a mars light. A mars light was one of the leadlights that swept from side to side or in a figure 8 pattern.
Congratulations! Sounds like you did some work. I just modified one where I put in a medium oval speaker and really improved the sound.
As far as the rotary beacon I use yellow LEDs. Keep in mind that they can be filed into various shapes to fit various fixtures--within reason. I also put Kapton tape over them in a careful fashion so that the color when not used looks more prototypical than the bright yellow toy look. Some of the LEDs have a lip on their base and so with some careful filing you can even use that lip to help represent the base. I paint the lip silver/aluminum color. However the lip is not to HO scale as far as I can tell.
Richard
I meant the roof top beacon. I see where a Detail West part was used in a past post. Was wondering how this scaled out in the real world.
Train Modeler Congratulations! Sounds like you did some work. I just modified one where I put in a medium oval speaker and really improved the sound. Richard
Richard,
Thanks.
How did you get a medium speaker to fit? The best I could do was fit a QSI Small-Oval Enclosure over the front trucks (18mm x 37mm x 11mm).
There are two different sizes of medium oval speakers on the market, I used the smaller one from DCC Installs and Sales, made by AHD and is nominally 8mm wide.
I use the shell as part of the enclosure itself as opposed to adding an enclosure. That means when I use the top front (radiator) area I get 3 sides of a 5 sided enclosure while maximizing speaker size. I put the speaker in pointing downwards while adding card stock on the speaker ends having a small hole for wires. You can use various types of sealant/cement to do this. The friction fit of the speaker to the sides of shell along with residual sealant on the speaker ends will hold things together very well. I file down the sides of the speakers and where necessary open up the inside of the shell sides somewhat to get a good tight fit to seal in the sound, but allow speaker install without deforming shell. I have used variations of this method on numerous installs since normally the larger speaker with good enclosure sounds better. In some ways the theory is much like using the tender itself vs a small speaker enclosure. So the more distance you have between the speaker back and top of loco shell, the better it should sound.
Try Richmond Controls for a LED for your roof .
They can make a special diameter for you . That might work for you.
http://www.richmondcontrols.com/
Thanks for the info.
I've used them in the past. They are located less than 10 miles from me. I built some dioramas for a client a few years back and used their flasher modules in a few areas. Great company.
I went ahead and used a Miniatronics 1.5v 1.2mm "old fashion" light bulb. Now to find the appropriate Details West beacon detail to house it in.
Train Modeler There are two different sizes of medium oval speakers on the market, I used the smaller one from DCC Installs and Sales, made by AHD and is nominally 8mm wide. I use the shell as part of the enclosure itself as opposed to adding an enclosure. Richard
I use the shell as part of the enclosure itself as opposed to adding an enclosure.
Hell of an Idea...wish I had thought of doing that ?????do I want to tear this apart and try this?????
I may just do that. I have the exact speaker you mention. Sound is good now but with the added "dead" space behind the speaker and the bigger size the bass maybe more prononced.
Now where did I leave those small wire cutters?????
Train Modeler Congratulations! Sounds like you did some work. I just modified one where I put in a medium oval speaker and really improved the sound. As far as the rotary beacon I use yellow LEDs. Keep in mind that they can be filed into various shapes to fit various fixtures--within reason. I also put Kapton tape over them in a careful fashion so that the color when not used looks more prototypical than the bright yellow toy look. Some of the LEDs have a lip on their base and so with some careful filing you can even use that lip to help represent the base. I paint the lip silver/aluminum color. However the lip is not to HO scale as far as I can tell. Richard
I use a Details West RB106 with a Miniatronics 1.5 volt, 1.2mm bulb. The RB106 yellow plastic part is 2.7mm diameter, the metal base is 3.85mm diameter and the total height is 4.2mm. A LokSound Micro feeds the bulb via a 470 ohm resistor which gives me a little over one volt DC for the bulb.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
A video of the beacon. While it does not rotate, I am happy with the results. The reality is, I am just a boy playing with trains. I got the idea from Wolfgang. He uses a beacon on his 44 tonner.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDosTzkQiWg\
richg1998 Train Modeler: Congratulations! Sounds like you did some work. I just modified one where I put in a medium oval speaker and really improved the sound. As far as the rotary beacon I use yellow LEDs. Keep in mind that they can be filed into various shapes to fit various fixtures--within reason. I also put Kapton tape over them in a careful fashion so that the color when not used looks more prototypical than the bright yellow toy look. Some of the LEDs have a lip on their base and so with some careful filing you can even use that lip to help represent the base. I paint the lip silver/aluminum color. However the lip is not to HO scale as far as I can tell. Richard I use a Details West RB106 with a Miniatronics 1.5 volt, 1.2mm bulb. The RB106 yellow plastic part is 2.7mm diameter, the metal base is 3.85mm diameter and the total height is 4.2mm. A LokSound Micro feeds the bulb via a 470 ohm resistor which gives me a little over one volt DC for the bulb. Rich
Train Modeler: Congratulations! Sounds like you did some work. I just modified one where I put in a medium oval speaker and really improved the sound. As far as the rotary beacon I use yellow LEDs. Keep in mind that they can be filed into various shapes to fit various fixtures--within reason. I also put Kapton tape over them in a careful fashion so that the color when not used looks more prototypical than the bright yellow toy look. Some of the LEDs have a lip on their base and so with some careful filing you can even use that lip to help represent the base. I paint the lip silver/aluminum color. However the lip is not to HO scale as far as I can tell. Richard
Rich,
I really like this look.
If using a Tsunami, you can program a function ( F5 or F6 to) be a rotory beacon.
[quote user="MOAVBILLY"]
Train Modeler: Congratulations! Sounds like you did some work. I just modified one where I put in a medium oval speaker and really improved the sound. Richard Richard, You didn't tell me the status LED on the Tsunami decoder shines right through the plastic. Got to take it all apart to put a shield over the LED.....LOL
You didn't tell me the status LED on the Tsunami decoder shines right through the plastic. Got to take it all apart to put a shield over the LED.....LOL
I learned a couple of lessons during this:
Do any detail or weathering AFTER you decide to add/modify the "innards".
Make sure the running gear is perfect....I cleaned everything and re-lubed but should have done a test run before starting the install. I now have a slight hesitation at slow speed, less than 5 MPH. I'm hoping it will clear after a few minutes of running.
The roof top beacon is operating on F6, now need to tweak it to get the flash rate closer to real life.
Wish I had a video camera that had better resolution....Santa forgot my wish list. Maybe I'll splurge after my next commison check and buy one that can be used for internet posting.
Overall I'm pleased with how this "drop in" decoder install went. Hopefully I will remember the above lessons when I do my next one.....getting old and forget where my glasses are most of the time.
I want to thank everybody for the kind words and help.