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Athearn Bluebox and DCC

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  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: The Great American Southwest
  • 403 posts
Posted by HAZMAT9 on Thursday, December 30, 2010 9:20 AM

Cleared it up Rich, somewhat related to my other post.  Thanks, Steve

Steve "SP Lives On " (UP is just hiding their cars) 2007 Tank Car Specialist Graduate
  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Tuesday, December 28, 2010 6:04 AM

HAZMAT9,

Is this thread related to your other thread on the NCE starter system?

I am confused.   Also, I have not heard of an NRC starter system that you mentioned in your original post on this thread.  Did you mean NCE?

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: The Great American Southwest
  • 403 posts
Posted by HAZMAT9 on Monday, December 27, 2010 10:31 AM

Thanks for the info, I went ahead and drilled/tapped a 2-56 hole on the frame just above the rear coupler under the shell.  Just about ready to give it a go, many thanks again!  Steve

Steve "SP Lives On " (UP is just hiding their cars) 2007 Tank Car Specialist Graduate
  • Member since
    December 2001
  • 1,932 posts
Posted by Stevert on Monday, December 27, 2010 10:16 AM

Yes, you can drill and tap the frame and attach the wire there.  Or, drill the front light post and use a screw and nut, or even solder it to that front light post (assuming in either case that the rivet which attaches the headlight post to the frame is tight)

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: WSOR Northern Div.
  • 1,559 posts
Posted by WSOR 3801 on Monday, December 27, 2010 10:12 AM

Yes, you can drill into the frame, run a screw in, and use that for the ground/black wire.  The old A-Line wiring kits used a similar method. 

For better pickup, you could run wires from each truck.  Solder right onto the metal plate behind the sideframe.  It takes a bit of thinking and planning to run the wires, but it is worth it.

Just make sure you have insulated the bottom of the motor from the frame.  I usually put two layers of electrical tape on, one on the bottom motor clip, the other on the frame itself. 

Once you get it in, you will most likely need to increase CV2, start voltage, to get the Athearn to move before step 30.  Try a value of 50.

Mike WSOR engineer | HO scale since 1988 | Visit our club www.WCGandyDancers.com

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: The Great American Southwest
  • 403 posts
Athearn Bluebox and DCC
Posted by HAZMAT9 on Monday, December 27, 2010 9:41 AM

One last question before I fire up my new NRC starter system.  In addition to my DCC ready Atlas Train Master,  I have an old blue box Athearn GP-60 that I'm installing a Digitrax DH-123AT into.  The question lies with the black wire that is supposed to clip onto the light post.  The clip came off and I couldn't get it to stay on the post.......can I drill into the frame and ground it here?  It looks like the light post is connected to the frame and grounds.  I know this is supposed to be the left pick up.....will this work....just don't want to short out and blow out my decoder.  Thanks!   Steve

Steve "SP Lives On " (UP is just hiding their cars) 2007 Tank Car Specialist Graduate

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