We had 5 of the digitrax AR1 and had problems with momentary drop outs on sound units. (Especially when consisted) Fiddling with the trim didn't help much. Too much would trip the 4 amp breaker. Too little and we would get multiple "flips" There's too much of an inrush current with sound, and they are very sensitive to drop outs.
We went to the PSX-AR and it worked right out of the box.for us. No more drop outs. Additional benefits include:
1. Includes a circuit breaker
2. Has block detection
3. Has pins to automatically throw a turnout when it trips over a photocell/IR cell.
4. Tells you when there's a short.
5. You can tell it to shut power to the block through the cab or computer interface. (Can be useful for automated block control)
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
jalajoie Thanks to all that replied, lots of valuable input I appreciate. I did not know about the OG-AR, I will further document myself on this subject. At the club we are aware of the Frog-Juicer. We are testing one with an old Shinohara turnout, that is thrown with an over center spring that I made. We think it is a wonderful gadget. Thanks again all.
Thanks to all that replied, lots of valuable input I appreciate.
I did not know about the OG-AR, I will further document myself on this subject.
At the club we are aware of the Frog-Juicer. We are testing one with an old Shinohara turnout, that is thrown with an over center spring that I made. We think it is a wonderful gadget.
Thanks again all.
Jack W.
Randy.
I was just giving the OP more options. Talking with Tam Valley the maker of the frog juicer claims it will handle a reverse loop and tested at 4 amps. I still would use an OG-AR over it though.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
The Frog Juicer is not a suitable oiption, it is NOT designed to switch that much current. Duncan has a special version that is a dual model that DOES switch high currents and can be used for reversers.
Me, I'll take the AR-1, simple to adjust the potentiometer to fine tune it, no messing with jumpers. Simple, cheap,a dn it works. The typical small relay like that is rated for 10 million operations - if your loop is properly set up that's 5 million trains through the loop, assuming it has to flip twice each time, which is the MOST it should have to. You tell me how long it will take to run 5 million trains through a section of your layout - even a busy club.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Jack.
The PSX-AR is a multi function unit. Breaker, decoder, and auto rev. in one package. Try looking at an OG-AR. This is a solid state breaker and auto rev in one unit. About $25. Each auto rev section can handle 4 amps and multiple sound decoders are not a problem. Our club is using 4 of them on our permanent layout. There are solder pads for indication lights if you want them other then that just 4 wires to hook up and no adjustments. The PSX-AR needs adjustments sometimes for odd situations like lower amp systems and dual reverse sections. If you want total automation of a reverse loop to include throwing the turnout automatically then the PSX-AR is a great unit. Once the unit detects the polarity change it flips the turnout for uninterpretable movements with nothing more to buy besides the turnout motor. You have to get the unit designed for what throws the points. Twin coil, motor, or 2 or 3 rail AC.
Another option is the Hex frog juicer from Fast tracks. You will need to use 2 of the six outputs for each reversing route. Lenz K200 is another auto reverser.
Eric97123 I have a digitrax AR1 and it works great out of the box, when I got a sound loco and I did have to adjust the setting just a hair.. the only complaint is that it makes a slight clicking sound but I hid mine in scratch built shack made from some scrap and after that I did not hear it all .
I have a digitrax AR1 and it works great out of the box, when I got a sound loco and I did have to adjust the setting just a hair.. the only complaint is that it makes a slight clicking sound but I hid mine in scratch built shack made from some scrap and after that I did not hear it all .
Well, there you go ! LOL
Same here.
Rich
Alton Junction
The Digitrax AR1 has a relay that has contacts that wear with time; The DCC Specialties reverser is 100 percent solid state and works flawlessly (have installed it in a club environment). If you will subject it to heavy use, use the DCC Specialties unit; if light to moderate use, the AR1 will work fine for a long time. Both units work well; we also have an AR1 in an area of the layout that is not on the main line.
Carl in Florida - - - - - - - - - - We need an HO Amtrak SDP40F and GE U36B oh wait- We GOT THEM!
I have a digitrax AR1 and it works great out of the box, when I got a sound loco and I did have to adjust the setting just a hair.. the only complain is that it makes a slight clicking sound but I hid mine in scratch built shack made from some scrap and after that I did not hear it all .
As always, I cast my vote for the Digitrax AR1.
Half the price and twice as nice.
oh ,run a search on (ar1) and scroll down and youl see a recent post called" ar1 vs psxar " its a good read Jerry
MisterBeasley There is no noticeable hesitation as an engine crosses the gap, which is not always the case with relay-based autoreversers.
I haven't noticed any hesitation with my AR1's, which are relay-based. It must only happen under certain conditions, that don't happen to exist on my layout.
1.the psxar comes in differant turnout formats for auto return /reverse loops.2.the psxar is also solid state that gives quick&silent reversing with very small arking that can be hard on wheels&track3. once set up the psxar shouldnt need any further adjustment for light pass.cars,sound equip ect 4. the psxar is also a curcuit breaker.5. it cost 20.00 american more. the ar1 offers none of the thease...Jerry
My understanding is that the PSX-AR is a circuit breaker and reverser in one package, and also that it tends to handle sound decoder inrush issues better than the AR1.
That said, I have two AR1's on my layout that work just fine. They are fed from a PM42, so I don't need another breaker, and the sound loco inrush has been a non-issue (so far - knock wood!).
I've got 2 of the PS-REV, the predecessor to the PSX-AR. These units have performed flawlessly for 5 or 6 years now.
These are electronic units, no relays. They use high-speed switching circuitry, which gives a much faster flip-time. There is no noticeable hesitation as an engine crosses the gap, which is not always the case with relay-based autoreversers. I have one short reversing section which goes diagonally across an oval. This should cause no end of problems, as trains routinely can span both gaps at once, but the fast switching time usually lets me cruise through without interruption, even though the auto-reverser may be doing its thing a dozen times or so as first one gap and then the other is crossed.
These units also function as circuit breakers on the protected loop. Mine have a 2.5 amp rating.
I've got no experience with the AR-1.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
At the club we are in the process of replacing a 10 years old MRC auto reverser. What would you suggest, Digitrax AR1 or the DCC Specialties PSX-AR. At Tony the AR1 is listed at $ 25.00 while the PSX-AR is $ 50.00, there must be more bells and whistles with the PSX-AR to justify the higher price.