I have a 10' X 28" shelf lay out with four lines. I have soldered each code 83 section together, and have feed each line, from both ends, with 18 guage solid wire. I have no blocks, or switches.
I have read in Lionel Strang's book that my feeder wires should be no more than 3 feet apart when wiring a lay out for DCC. Is my wiring going to be ok, or do I need to add more connections? This I can do, if you say so...but what a pain it's gonna be!!!!!!
Also,as this is my first try at DCC, Can you recommed a couple good DCC starter systems, with walk around controls. I have the coins but do not want to buy something, to find out that I should have bought this other thing also...I hope you understand. Please remember that to say I am a novis at this hobby, will be giving me way to much credit!!!
In closing, I want to thank you all for your comments on my question on wiring my 0-6-0 from DCC to DC....now I don't have to do anything to it!!!!!
Thank you;
Robert
If you have a feeder at each end of your 10 ft track and each joint is soldered you should have no noticeable voltage drop in the center of the layout.
Enjoy it.
Dave
From Mt Pleasant, Utah, the home of the Hill Valley and Thistle Railroad where the Buffalo still roam and a Droid runs the trains
Robert.
As your layout is only ten feet long and you have wired to each end of each line, you may be OK. When you start running trains, just check to see if the trains slow down appreciably anywhere along the run. If they do, it may be wise to add another feeder to each line somewhere near the middle to boost the power supply.
As for a starter DCC system, I went with an NCE starter set that I got for $150.00 Online. (Retail just under $200.00 now but still can be found for around $150 to $160.) It is literally "Plug and Play". Plug in your two Bus line wires into the back of the fascia panel that is mounted with 4 small screws. Insert the plug from the supplied Wall Wart power supply into the socket in the back of the Fascia panel. Plug the Wall Wart into a handy 110V receptacle. Plug your hand-held controller into the front of the Fascia Panel where indicated. RUN TRAINS. It's that easy.
FYI. Digitrax also makes a good DCC starter set, but I am not familiar with that one or its price range.
Blue Flamer.
Jay
I feel that you can not have too many feeders. Having too few is bad. Kind of like cash you can never have too much. Which ever system you buy the first thing to do is a quarter test. Just go around your layout and short the track with a piece of metal or test lead and see if the system trips. If it trips instantly then you are good to go. If it takes a second or two or not at all then more feeders are a must. There is a member of this forum that burnt up a few decoders before he found the problem.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
The Digitrax systems allow you to run a non-decoder equiped loco by using address 0. The Zephyr is their basic system and can be expanded to wireless ( radio or infrared) later. Radio is better but you still have to purchase the radio receiver and another throttle. It's a 2-1/2 amp system. The next up is the Super Empire Builder which you can purchase with the radio reciver and throttle. It's a five amp system. Since you have four lines you may want to get a circuit breaker for each line which will give you four power districts, so if you get an overload or a short circuit due to a derailment you will only stop that line. The Digitrax PM-42 circuit breaker has four adjustable circuit breakers. As for price it is best for you to check around on line as i'm not up on the prices.
It wouldn't be bad to add a few more feeders around on each line. 20 AWG wire would be OK.
With the system in the middle, that's 5 feet of #18 wire. No noticeable voltage drop. It should be just fine the way it is.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Like many folks, when I converted to DCC all I did was remove the two wires from one of my two power packs and connect them to my DCC unit (a Digitrax Zephyr), so that essentially one "cab" was DCC. That way I could the layout on DC with the remaining power pack, or DCC with the Zephyr. I had a 6' by 16' layout with a twice-around mainline and a good-sized yard and had no troubles with power, even with sound engines etc. Wiring was all the standard "black and red" hobby wire from the LHS (Model Power I think?).