OK.... Success hopefully with the photo this time!
I have finally solved the pick-up issue to where my Climax is completely operational and the TSU-750 is working awesome. The slow speed is incredibly impressive.
I modified some Tomar Industries pick-up shoes and installed them on each truck, 2 per truck.
Here is a photo of the work.
I installed them over the existing wipers to have double the connection.
You can see the shoes once installed but it's not distracting and now I have another great geared loco for the woods.
Cheers!
Birdog
Sorry,
I'll work on the link.
I checked it before I posted and it was working so not sure what's up. i'll check it.
Birdog OK Success! I have finally solved the pick-up issue to where my Climax is completely operational and the TSU-750 is working awesome. The slow speed is incredibly impressive. I modified some Tomar Industries pick-up shoes and installed them on each truck, 2 per truck. Here is a photo of the work. " alt="" onload="resizeImage(this);" /> I installed them over the existing wipers to have double the connection. You can see the shoes once installed but it's not distracting and now I have another great geared loco for the woods. Cheers! Birdog
OK Success!
" alt="" onload="resizeImage(this);" />
Try to fix the photo link. When you do fix it and submit, check the message to see if the photo link works.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Thanks DG I'll give it a try.
Here's something else you can check
If you have your volt meter, turn it to Cap (to measure capacitance)
Measure the capacitance across the capacitor terminals. (Try to keep your fingers off the metal probes if at all possible) as this will alter the reading.) It should read 220uF The red probe goes to the plus side, and the black goes to the negative (-) side. (There will be a stripe going down the side)
Sometimes if you hold the soldering iron to long to the legs, it will damage the capacitor and it will no longer hold a charge.
Since the Tsunami is very sensitive to dropouts, a lost keep alive capacitor would show the symptoms you are experiencing.
25V 220uF caps are about 10 cents each from jameco, digikey, or 75 cents from soundtraxx.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_30496_-1
Rat shack, or Soundtraxx might be the cheaper way to go becuase Jameco charges $7.50 for shipping (min) + $10 min order.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
Rich/Selector,
I talked to service/parts at Bachmann and they could offer no suggestions other than send it in. Well I don't think that will work since I have removed the bachmann board to install the Tsunami.
As far as the ideas about a bad wire; that is in the back of my mind. However would a bad or loose wire enable the loco to sit and idle? Would a bad/loose wire allow me to let the loco run all day against my finger (not allowing it to travel down the track)? I guess I don't have that extensive experience so perhaps it would. That is why I am considering replacing the pickup pads. they show some wear but the loco really doesn't have that many hours on it.
Go to the Bachmann site. There is a lot of info there with many who use Bachmann products.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php
Thanks for reply's guys. I'll tell ya, after several years monitoring this board both of your names appear very often and offer sound and honest advice...thank you!
As far as the loco goes, I did adjust the wipers as mentioned and it did not help much. I bought some conducta lube and that did not help either.
I am thinking of fabrication, but that seems pretty tough.
The Bachmann Shay has contacts where the trucks fit into the frame for electrical power. I suspect the Climax may be the same. Check those areas. I have a link somewhere that describes this but I have to find it.
It reminds me of the older MDC/Roundhouse boxcab and Climax the had a similar setup. Running wires solved this issue for my MDC Climax.
Might work for the Climax. Just a guess right now.
I had a similar problem myself with a 0-6-0T
The club also had problems with the Thomas the tank engine pickups.
Personally I don't like Bachmann's wheel wiper type pickup. I've had problems with it ever since my first bachmann the 4-8-2 Heavy Mountain.
Fiddling with the wipers doesn't seem to help much. (I took my cover off and bent them outward to put more pressure on the wheel backs)
But there is hope. I solved a lot of problems with both Thomas and the 0-6-0T by using some Atlas conducta lube. Just place a small drop near the pickup and let it run for a while. I still get a reset dropout at slow speed every once in a while, but it's not that bad.
http://www.ehobbies.com/atl192.html
Atlantic Central (Sheldon) has a lot of experience with Bachmanns and tuning them. Maybe he could chime in.
Many may have seen this on the Bachmann board but her it goes:
I am having significant electrical issues with my 50t HO Climax. I installed a Micro-Tsunami with capacitor and the engine ran well for about 3 months. It now will move a few mm then stop and reset. Or not move at all. When parked the engine will idle all day long and sound normal. I can hold the engine in place with my finger and the engine will run, wheels turning sound on etc but the instant I attempt let it move forward or back on it's own the engine will stop and the decoder will reset over and over. So....I have cleaned EVERYTHING; track, wheels, pickup pads, etc. No improvement.I have replaced the capacitor with one of higher value, no improvement.I am considering replacing the pickup pads and the truck wipers. Does anyone know if I can get the pads or wipers for the climax (will the Shay parts work?) or do I have to manufacture them myself?Any help or troubleshooting tips would be apreciated.Thanks!