I too jumped back into model railroading 2 years ago. My last layout was in 1975. I did a lot of reading and research and discovered how much improvement there was in this hobby. I considered converting my old HO Athearn and TYCO DC locos to DCC and concluded it wasn't worth it. I sold the old ones at a swap meet for about $10 each. One of the previous posts mentioned Bachmann engines. I have 2 new DCC Diesels (no sound) I purchased from 2 different hobby stores on eBay - about $50 - $60 each. I'm very happy with them. Yes, there are better and more expensive locos available but we have to live within a budget. I also bought a new Broadway Limited Paragon F7 A&B set with DCC & sound for $265, also from a hobby store on eBay. I'm taking my time so I don't make too many mistakes. I've already purchased some scenery materials that I won't use because my plans have changed. I wish you well.
There are links in the below link.
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/nswmn2/DCC.htm
Store the links in Favorites for future reference.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Thanks. This is some good basic info. I plan on having 2 completely different sets of track completely seperate from each other. 1 that will be for a coal and logging operation and operate for that, then the other set is going to be more of a transportation style with sleeper cars, a few baggage and dinning cars in a different area. Both would not be connected via tracks and different areas of the layout. What I am thinking of doing is to when i decide on the layout design is to start laying out the track and all and save up to buy a few of the dcc equipped engines and then do the wiring so i dont have to convert it late. What do think? Am i thinking to ambishly, overthinking, forgetting something, or maybe on the right track?
Sean, the unknown train travler,
traintravler Hi neveryone, I am getting back into mrr and ive been hearing things about the dcc system. I do plan on running all my older cars, but switch to the newer knucle couplers from the horn couplers on many of the cars (most from the 70's and 80's). I do plan on eventually switching over to the dcc built in locos and everything. Like most people i am limited in funds until things like credit cards are paid off which be in a couple of years. What should i consider about dcc when it comes to things such as the engines, wiring for them and the track. In a way its all greek to me and as i am thinking of my layout I want to take into considerations like this. Thanks.
Hi neveryone,
I am getting back into mrr and ive been hearing things about the dcc system. I do plan on running all my older cars, but switch to the newer knucle couplers from the horn couplers on many of the cars (most from the 70's and 80's). I do plan on eventually switching over to the dcc built in locos and everything. Like most people i am limited in funds until things like credit cards are paid off which be in a couple of years. What should i consider about dcc when it comes to things such as the engines, wiring for them and the track. In a way its all greek to me and as i am thinking of my layout I want to take into considerations like this. Thanks.
I am on a very tight budget. I have found that the Bachmann DCC OnBoard locos to be great value. FOr around $50 +/- {often for less} you can get a brand new diesel DCC equiped with lights, direction and speed control. Steamers may cost a bit more. I call them "value locos" as they seem to be a good value for the money and run well. THe spectrums may cost more but come more detailed and some say they seem to last better, Many Spectrum locos become standard locos after their spectrum run. Though I have an entire fleet of Bachmann DCC OnBoard Locos and LOVE them all! I haven't had a lick of problems with any one of them in 4 years.They also have DCC SOund OnBoard Locos if you are into sound. If Santa heeded my list, I will be getting more for xmas!
I also use the Bachmann EZ command DCC system controller. It is easy to use. COntrol 2-3 locos on any trackage {depending on amperage of the locos}, up to 10 locos, 2 digit registered locos {but not all running unless you buy the 5 amp booster!}. You can run them in opposite directions on the same track. It also allows you to run ONE DC loco in spot #10 if you like, BUT I would NOT try mixing DC with DCC though, as sure as shooting and based on several posts here recently, you WILL fry something!
If you hurry, and I mean hurrry before their sale runs out {getting close}, you can get a Bacmann EZ Command DCC system WITH a Loco in stock next day shipping for only $75.99:
http://www.wholesaletrains.com/Detail.asp?Scale=HO&SPECIAL=0&ID=200429900
Or for a bit more, a train set with TWO DCC locos for $159.99 :
http://www.wholesaletrains.com/Detail.asp?Scale=HO&Item=160Set&offset=0&ID=200411080
All their special sets with Bachamann EZ Command and a DCC OnBoard Loco included are here if you wnat a different livery {name on it}:
http://www.wholesaletrains.com/HOProducts2.asp?Scale=HO&Item=RGBVCW&offset=0
Just to name a few.
Next year, I am going to same my pennies to get a Digitrax Zephyr Xtra Dcc controller system to repace my EZCommand. It has served me well. is easy to operate, and will now serve the under the xmas tree layout. I will replace it as I now have more locos {all but one are Bachmanns trouble free for 4 years} than I can program onto it without reprogramming locos each time, especially if santa is good to me!!!
Just some thoughts, ideas, opinions and my exerience.
-G .
Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.
HO and N Scale.
After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.
This is a very good explanation of DCC from a beginner's viewpoint:
http://www.tonystrains.com/tonystips/dccprimer/index.htm
If you have a properly-wired DC system, converting to DCC is very simple. If you don't have an existing layout, you will find that DCC makes the wiring a lot simpler from the start. You don't need "blocks" to run multiple trains, and reverse loops can be automated with a bit of electronics called an auto-reverser.
I guess my most important advice is "Don't buy too much too soon." This is something I learned the hard way, and it applies to anyone starting out. In general, it's cheaper to buy engines with the DCC electronics, including or not including sound, already installed than it is to buy a DC engine, decoder, and maybe a speaker and install them yourself. Plus, you don't have to do the work, which can be tricky.
Many engines today come with "dual-mode" decoders, which will operate on both DCC and DC. They're really optimized for DCC, but if you choose to delay your DCC upgrade for a while, you can still run these engines on DC and have a lot of fun with them.
Oh, and welcome aboard!
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Hi. If you are handy with the model engines and can disassemble them comfortably, alter them internally as needed, and then reassemble them, about all you need to ensure is that the decoder you elect to place in each engine can only get power directly from leads, and not from inadvertent/forgotten/unnoticed contact or other leads. Generally, the motor must be isolated from the frame somehow, and the motor's leads must come from the decoder, nowhere else...or else. Some folks fashion brackets for the motor, others just use gobs of silicone caulking or sealant and let it harden.
Sometimes, not that often, the frame or internal weights in a tight space might need some paring away, usually via a file and elbow grease or with a milling machine. This is only the case if there is no room for the decoder.
As for wiring, it should be simple...heavy-enough gauge wire to get the voltage out to the rails, and enough contact points with the rails that there is no voltage drop between those points. For a typical 4X8 plywood layout and a simple oval, even with a siding or two, a single pair of leads may be enough. The problem is with the metal joiners between rail sections. They often get loose or filled with material and oxidation that hampers their intended purposes of alignment and getting electrons to the rails. In other words, they'll often let you down. So, what many of us do is to solder thin wires to several places on the track system. And that's about it. Just keep the voltage high around all the rails and DCC will work well for you.
Crandell