Stripping Wire

[rrinker]

 That's why I bought a box of short #8 screws. I stick the things on and they usually stay up long enough for me to reach for the drill and a screw and drive it in. Won't ever fall down now.

                                        --Randy

 

[Phoebe Vet]

I just use a stand off staple gun to drive a staple in but about a quarter inch from flush.

I then put a cable strap under it the same way you put one through that stick on thing.  If needed, it is simple to cut the cable strap and put a new one on if wire has to be added to the bundle.

Of course that will only work on wood.

[Seamonster]

rrinker

 I've even pretty lazy about the liquid electrical tape. I will eventually go back and hopefully hit all soldered joints. But my bus wires are held with reusable wire ties looped through these little square hold-downs - they come in a back of 100 and have sticky tape on the back but I find it doesn;t hold so I drive a #8 1/2 inch screw up through each one. And I offset the joints for each feeder so the two sides can't touch - I've yet to have a short and this is the second layout I've built this way. These are the fasteners: http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-Electrical-Tools-Accessories-Staples-Ties-Tubing-Ties/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xhwZbm8e/R-100084509/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

             --Randy

 

I've got those sticky tie-downs too, Randy, and I've found that they don't stick well at all to unpainted wood.  They will stick better to wood that's painted with gloss paint.  They stick best to smooth non-porous materials like metal, plastic or glass.  Back when I was working, someone stuck one to the top of a metal office desk as a prank.  By looping a nylon tie through the tie down, we were able to lift the desk off the floor.  It was stuck good!

I use small screw eyes to attach wires against the wood under my layout.  I drill a small pilot hole, screw in the screw eye, then secure the wires with a nylon tie.  The screw eye is very small.  You can get them in bulk at any hardware store.  You can get the nylon ties cheaply at a Dollar store.  I don't like to use tin ties with a wire in them but will use plastic ones where I know I'll be undoing them to add more wires later.  The nylon ties can't be undone and re-used.

 

[rrinker]

 I've even pretty lazy about the liquid electrical tape. I will eventually go back and hopefully hit all soldered joints. But my bus wires are held with reusable wire ties looped through these little square hold-downs - they come in a back of 100 and have sticky tape on the back but I find it doesn;t hold so I drive a #8 1/2 inch screw up through each one. And I offset the joints for each feeder so the two sides can't touch - I've yet to have a short and this is the second layout I've built this way. These are the fasteners: http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-Electrical-Tools-Accessories-Staples-Ties-Tubing-Ties/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xhwZbm8e/R-100084509/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

             --Randy

 

[donhalshanks]

Yep, a tool like or similar to the stripmaster is the way to go.  I think it is micromark(?) which offers a similar one.  I could not believe how fast it was to connect feeders when deciding to build my layout.   i used that and some brushed on liquid insulation stuff on the joint and that was it.

Have fun wiring.... Hal

[DigitalGriffin]

rrinker

 With a pair of these: http://www.idealindustries.com/products/wire_processing/hand_tools/stripmaster.jsp

I got mine at Home Depot. These are simply the best and mosr rugged wire strippers around. As long as you don't try to use them as a hammer, they should last forever. Mine do from #22 to #10, so I can use the same tool to strip teh ends of my feeer wires as well as strip short stretches in the middle of my bus wire.

                                    --Randy

 

 

+1

[jeffrey-wimberly]

I use a Kronos wire stripper I got from Radio Shack.

[rrinker]

 I'm sure both those methods work fine, but the Stripmaster is MUCH faster and easier. ANd has pretty much zero chance of nicking the wire. Pushing back the insulation hurts nothing, and after you do a few you'll know exactly how far to squeeze to compensate for the little it comes back.

                              --Randy

 

[retsignalmtr]

I use European style pass through barrier strips to support my DCC buss and to attach the track feeders. I removed the insulation at the location by scoring 3/4" of the insulation where it passes through the strip and use a utility knife or exacto blade to remove the insulation between the marks. 

[gandydancer19]

You can also use the regular automotive or home type wire strippers to make two circular cuts about an inch apart on the bus wire, then use a knife to slice off the top of the insulation between the cuts.  Then just peel the rest of the insulation from the one inch section.

The Stripmaster wire strippers will work, and I also have a pair of them.  However, they just cut and then push the insulation up the wire.

[rrinker]

 With a pair of these: http://www.idealindustries.com/products/wire_processing/hand_tools/stripmaster.jsp

I got mine at Home Depot. These are simply the best and mosr rugged wire strippers around. As long as you don't try to use them as a hammer, they should last forever. Mine do from #22 to #10, so I can use the same tool to strip teh ends of my feeer wires as well as strip short stretches in the middle of my bus wire.

                                    --Randy

 

[GIGeorge]

How do you strip wire in places that are not on the end, i.e., midway along the wire?