In regard to your desires to run 2 trains at one time, I suggest that you put in insulated track joiners at 6 (six) additional places on youra layout: on the outer loop, at 12 O'clock & @ 8 O'clock, next to the existing ones shown; and @ 2 O'clock and 4 O'clock, on both outer loop and the Penninsula "U" track. I would suggest that you use an Atlas Connector & 2 Atlas Selectors to provide wiring for the resulting blocks on your MRR. The Connector provides for a common ground line, for all blocks inner rail, and the Selectors provide 8 SPDT/center off "hot-wire" feeds for the 8 isolated blocks. , allowing you to select the power pack for each block, whjich enables you to run two trains, independently. Again, be sure that THE COMMON RAIL remains the inner rail throughout your layout, otherwise shorts will occur, trains will not run.
As a separate suggestion, shortening the lead to the engine house, by moving its switch to the left, will allow switching both leads without fouling the Mainline.. Good luck...JWH
I agree with the others and specifically with mobilman44. The Atlas book and components make it very easy to set up blocks and multiple cab control. I too use MRC, but have a Tech III 9500 (with the meters, very handy) and a Tech 4 220 as the cabs. Perhaps primitive to some, I use the Atlas turnouts and switch machines (above the table - GASP!). The advantage of these products for the beginner is the simplicity and clear instructions on how to wire them and make them work together vs off the shelf, though somewhat less expensive, general electrical parts from RS, Mouser, Digikey, etc.
If you haven't read it somewhere else on this or another board...be sure you color code and label all your wires as you install them. Put a tag on both ends and if long, some in the middle. Print them on computer labels, use a Sharpie on masking tape, it doesn't matter. It will save your sanity and your hair later.
Emman
Robby P. My question is,,,,,,,,,,,,,I want to be able to run two trains. Someone can do some switching and the other person can run other freight/different switching. I'm running into the problem of when train #1 comes into the yard train #2 is having a hard time getting to the main line. It pauses. So then train #2 finally gets to the main line, and train #1 is in the yard. Then when I go to move train #2....train #1 is moving with the same power box!!! All I'm wanting to do is just run two trains. When its time for train #2 to come to the main line.....Hit a switch and its moving. While train #1 is some where else switching, and vise versa.
My question is,,,,,,,,,,,,,I want to be able to run two trains. Someone can do some switching and the other person can run other freight/different switching. I'm running into the problem of when train #1 comes into the yard train #2 is having a hard time getting to the main line. It pauses. So then train #2 finally gets to the main line, and train #1 is in the yard. Then when I go to move train #2....train #1 is moving with the same power box!!!
All I'm wanting to do is just run two trains. When its time for train #2 to come to the main line.....Hit a switch and its moving. While train #1 is some where else switching, and vise versa.
Robby
Whose turnouts and switch machines are you using? I ask because your track plan is well suited to using power routing turnouts or contacts on the switch machines to automatically turn off power on the spurs and yard tracks, thereby reducing the number of block toggles to contend with.
For two trains to follow each other on a segment of track without constantly stopping and starting, 4 blocks are the minimum. By this rule, your loop should have at least 4 separate blocks. Then the passing siding should be a 5th block. This leaves the yard/switching areas as potential blocks - only if they are long enough for a train to be moving on them without interfering with the passing track or main line. If there isn't enough space to be moving while a train is passing on the main or siding, then power routing is all you need or want for them.
my thoughts, your choices
Fred W
Hi,
I've run DC for decades, and just built my first DCC layout starting two years ago. The previous layout (11x15 two level DC) used the Atlas controls to facilitate two cab running. Basically, you divide the layout into blocks (I used plastic rail joiners) and each block is wired to the Atlas control and has a slide switch (DPDT or SPDT - forgot) that routes the power from one of two power packs. I used two MRC Controlmaster 20s, which IMHO are the best for DC operation.
Anyway, I tended to have way too many blocks, and you really may be better off with one for each main line, one for the sidings, one or two for loco facilities, and one for the yard.
The Atlas controls really do a good job with this especially for the beginner or those not wanting to make their own. I would get one of the Atlas wiring books first, so you will better understand. You can get them on Ebay used pretty cheap.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
There are probably a few different ways to wire this all together.
Let's see if I can remember the "right" way to wire DC (DCC user) for multi-cab control. DC Guys, if i make any glaring mistakes, lemme know . I'm assuming that this is NOT using common-rail wiring.
Firstly, you're going to have a "cab bus" on your control panel, with at least three DPDT switches (centre-off would probably be best). You'll hook the top pair of leads of each DPDT to the output of cab A, and the bottom pair to cab B. the centre pair of leads gets soldered to the main bus that feeds each isolated section. Train 1 is on cab A, working the double-ended yard; Train 2 is on cab B running around the mainline. Train 2 leaves the mainline to enter the stub-ended yard, so you switch that yard to "CAB B". After the locomotives leave the mainline, Train 1 (which was waiting for clearance) gets the OK to move onto the mainline -- so you've switched the mainline from the CAB B setting to CAB A.
Personally I would recommend additional blocks for a finer grained control of trains (say making the peninsula its own block, and adding a block in the "runaround" portion of the mainline that goes behind the double-ended yard).
-Dan
Builder of Bowser steam! Railimages Site
This is ny weak point of this hobby!!!
First off my layout is 12x15 and is in DC.
Here's a drawing of the layout. Where the orange spots are is where I want the blocks to go. *Sorry its not the best drawing*
"Rust, whats not to love?"