Part 2: After getting the modules wired, I turned my attention to the NJ International crossing gates. There are basically two kinds you can buy, one with the internal (and so, invisible but difficult to make it run smoothly) pull wire, and another with an external but quite visible pull wire which I found objectionable.
After experimenting on a scrap 1x6 clamped to my workbench, I found that having the external pull wire at a 60-degree angle relative to the layout worked best; as it was in line with the direction of the pull needed for best results.
I then drilled a small hole on the opposite side of the crossing gate weight, so the new pull wire would then be behind the gate mechanism and not so visible from the front. I left the pull wire in place on the gates that would be on the other side of the tracks, as the pull wire would still be partially hidden by the mechanism as viewed.
I fabricated a simple wood mount for the Tortoise, angling the Tortoise also at a 60-degree angle. Then I drilled a hole through the layout for the pull wire, also at a 60-degree angle.
I formed a tight loop at the end of the fulcrum wire on the Tortoise, and a tight loop on a short piece of brass wire, to make the pull wire adjustable in length....more on that in a bit.
I installed the rest of the Azatrax sensors...3 across-the-track and one in the roadbed....and they all worked perfectly!
More with pictures later....
Brass Hat, Gulf and Pacific Railroad HO/HOn3 (Modelled to represent mid 1960's) Big Bear Lake, CA. For pictures and videos of the layout please see below:
YouTube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/jostaiii?feature=mhee
Photobucket: http://s584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/josta1954/
I received the modules from Azatrax yesterday and started the installation process last night. I was really impressed with how well thought-through the package was, little things like how the wires in sensors furthest from the crossing are the longest, and the one nearest the crossing are the shortest. Saves time in having to splice and make the wires longer, plus keeping the color coding the same makes it much easier to keep track of the wiring.
The first picture is when I workbench-mounted the two modules on a 1x4 that will go under the layout. The MRD6 module on the left side is for the sensors, and the MRX1 on the right is the crossing gates/motor controller. At first I couldn't figure out why there were two modules when other companies have only one circuit board, but stay tuned....it all makes much sense and I was amazed how powerful and flexible this system is. But here's a hint...the MRD6 will handle up to 6 sensors!
The neat thing about this system is that you can use the sensors either across-the-track, or under-the-track, or a combination of them. That's what the "R" and "X" terminals on the 1x4 are for; I used bus bars from Radio Shack to make it easier. Additionally, all the sensors come encased in a white plastic tubing, which makes for a much cleaner installation and easier to adjust.
The second picture is where I installed an across-the-track sensor in a relatively hidden area of the layout so that's why it's a bit scruffy-looking in that area. I used across-the-track there due to the limited space underneath it. I put a dab of E6000 (my favorite glue) to hold the sensor in place within the vertical tube.
More to come as installation progresses.
Johnhttp://img833.imageshack.us/img833/6130/dsc02156t.jpg