Far as the interfaces, I use the Digitrax PR 3 and the PS 14 power supply.
Why I like using Decoder Pro is I don't have to look for the needed CV's in the manual, they are displayed on your computer screen.
Ken
I hate Rust
djbigwolf Thanks, Ken. Got a lot of encouragement from replies. Apparently, it is easier than I thought. Where does one get Decoder Pro? Don
Thanks, Ken. Got a lot of encouragement from replies. Apparently, it is easier than I thought. Where does one get Decoder Pro? Don
Decoder Pro is part of JMRI. Youcan dowload it from:
http://jmri.sourceforge.net/
Engineer Jeff NS Nut Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/
[Don's 5 combined posts below - Tom]
Thank you I ordered it!
Thank you. Will continue to go forth and not be afraid.
Thanks for the input. Obviously, you folks do take the time to help newbes.
Thanks Pete. I appreciate all the encouragement from so many folks who do take the time to help out new people.
Thanks, Ken. Got a lot of encouragement from replies. Apparently, it is easier than I thought. Where does one get Decoder Pro?
Don
I am a complete fool when it comes to understanding electronics and for this reason, I have stayed away from anything as complex as a DCC for many years. I also hate wiring, because I usually end with a number of burns.
When I re-entered the hobby roughly 10 years ago, I bought the at that time cheapest available DCC system called "Daisy" from Uhlenbrock/Germany. Anything with such a name must be easy to operate for a guy like me, I thought, and guess, what - it was. It did not have as many functions as the system now have, but it gave me a good service many years. With the advent of sound, I needed more functions, so I traded the system for a more modern Lenz system.
Most systems are really plug ´n play systems, changing the loco´s address is all you have to do, most factory settings are, at least for me, OK.
After getting the knack of DCC, I would not want to do without it anymore.
CTValleyRR And BTW, in case you didn't notice, those of us who have tried DCC are absolutely sold on it and wouldn't go back. While there are still plenty of people who operate in DC, DCC is quickly becoming the standard for model railroad layouts.
And BTW, in case you didn't notice, those of us who have tried DCC are absolutely sold on it and wouldn't go back. While there are still plenty of people who operate in DC, DCC is quickly becoming the standard for model railroad layouts.
Amen !
Alton Junction
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
Hi!
I felt your pain........
I've been playing with trains since the '50s, and my last DC layout (1993-2008) was fairly large and the wiring - while it was "bullet proof", was actually pretty complicated. And if you left the layout for more than a few days, you had to "relearn" how to operate it. It soon became a chore.
My point is, while I knew electricity (like wiring a house/layout), I didn't really understand electronics. And in 2007/2008, it became obvious to me that there was something desireable in DCC, and I picked up the Kalmbach wiring books and began reading and asking questions on this Forum (DCC section). I got scared away a couple times, but came back, and finally made the jump - concurrent with building a new HO layout.
The thing is, DCC (like DC) can be as complicated as you want. You do not have to start out with electronic signaling or turnout controls (they can still be powered by the old DC method). Nor do you have to tear apart your old locos and hand wire in decoders. In my case, I had some factory locos with decoders, and then went through my DC locos and thinned them out as to what I wanted to ultimately convert. The good folks on this forum helped me decide which locos were the easy ones, and which ones were fairly difficult.
So if I were you, I would read, read, read and get a knowledge foundation - and then start out fairly simple, and take each step one at a time. Trust me, everyone on this Forum went through the same process - although some naturally take to it, and others (like me) had to work at it.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
djbigwolf I feel overwhelmed learning about DCC. Does one need boleean algebra? How does one program the decoder? I guess I am asking if there is a book...DCC for Dummies.
I feel overwhelmed learning about DCC. Does one need boleean algebra? How does one program the decoder? I guess I am asking if there is a book...DCC for Dummies.
Djbigwolf, after you get into DCC it really is pretty simple! Reading the manufacture manuals can make your head hurt, but the main thing is finding which CV's control what you want to do. Most of use will only change the engine address then CV's 2,3,4,5 and 6. They control motion of the engine.
While you are reading about DCC, you might look up Decoder Pro. It is a free program, you can read and set CV's and store them on your computer. I use it and makes it pretty darn simple. You would need a computer interfaces, about $70.00 but worth it if you make the jump to DCC.
Cuda Ken
PS
The electronics section of the forums would be a better place for this thread.
DCC seems to be easier than changing the time on my car stereo and old VCRs! Most people like myself tend to learn as we go. DCC can be very simple or as hard as you can possibly make it. A well known fact is most DCC decoders and locos equipped with DCC run very good out of the box with little programing. The address and configuration are the CVs that need to be changed. All other CVs are optional and don't need to be changed if you like the way the decoder acts.
My advise would be get a simple expandable starter system and a DCC equipped loco and have fun. Decoders can not be messed up by programming changes. If it does get beyond reason there is always factory reset. This puts everything back to original factory settings.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
DJBigwolf.
I was in your shoes a couple of years ago. The thought of DCC can be really intimidating if you start at the wrong end (like looking at how to program Configuration Variables (CV's) on a system that doesn't allow plain English use.
In point of fact, though, I had a DCC system for 6 months before i even had to look at programming a CV.
I got a very slightly used Prodigy Express system from a buddy of mine. While I'm not bad at soldering track, I didn't trust myself to solder tiny wires to something as delicate as a microchip, so I paid the LHS (local hobby shop) $10 + the cost of the decoder to install them. I picked very basic decoders (lots of people here can help, although the DCC forum is a better place to go for these types of questions), and the LHS programmed the address for me.
Installation of the system on my layout was as simple as disconnecting the feeders from my DC power pack and connecting them to the Prodigy Express, although I later installed an A-B switch so I could select DC or DCC to power my layout. I was up and running in two weeks (because it took me that long to get the locos back from the LHS). Many locos today have a pin connection, where all you do is pop out a small jumper and insert a plug-in decoder. I did this on a couple, and all I had to do was program the loco address, a 30 second process.
Obviously, it's possible to get a lot more complicated, but you don't have to start out that way, and you can come up the learning curve as fast as you need to (I have since been able to program CV's using binary code -- It's really not difficult once you think it through, but this was after I was more comfortable with the system.
Welcome, and don't be afraid to ask questions (the only dumb question is the one you don't ask).
This link is to Tony's Trains and their on-line tutorial on DCC:
http://www.tonystrains.com/tonystips/dccprimer/index.htm
It's a great place to start.
Oh, and welcome aboard!
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
There is such a book.
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/400-12417