I have a similar situation, with about 20' of one way double track main between the single track and the reversing loop, so I made the two separate projects. Pick your favorite reverser for the loop.
At the turnout I used a IRDOT-2D from MicroMark. It uses infared to detect the train, so no rail cutting is needed. The 'D' means a 5 sec delay in returning to normal, giving your train time to clear the sensor and the points of the turnout. The fun is in picking the distance from the frog for the sensor. Far enough back that a fast train will reach the trunout after the points threw; close enough that the rear of a slow train would clear the turnout BEFORE the time delay ran out and the points switch back. I put the sensor and a Tortoise on top of the layout with the beam shooting across the track, and spent an hour or so running trains fast and slow thru the trap. I settled on about 16", allowing for a brace under the track at that point. The "2" means the board has a SPDT relay, controlling a Tortise with 2 power supplies, returning the turnout to Normal after the train has passed thru from the frog side. Given the lacation on the layout, I used a pair of wallwarts plugged into a nearby outlet to power the IRDOT and Toroise.
Phil
Timber Head Eastern Railroad "THE Railroad Through the Sierras"
I don't reccomend the digitrax AR-1 unless you don't mind the "clicking noises". I got one and returned it for the PSX-AR which is completely silent.
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
MisterBeasely is correct stating the AR-1 will not control the turnout. But that can be done with two Sensa-Trak units and an Automatic Turnout Control, both available from TCH Technology.
I started out with PS-REV units for my two reverse loops and added the TCH items later to add automatic turnout control. Sadly the PS-REV's eventually failed and have been replaced by PSX-AR's. These could be used for the automatic turnout control but the TCH products work so well I have seen no need to make the switch.
Good luck!
The AR1 does not control a turnout like the PSX-AR does.
I've got two PS-REV units, the predecessor to the PSX-AR. For what it's worth, these have functioned flawlessly for 5 years on my layout.
If you are going to use the auto-reverse unit to throw the turnout automatically, remember to put the insulators far enough into the loop that the turnout points will have time to move before the train gets to them. This isn't a big deal with a fast twin-coil switch machine, but if you're running a Tortoise, particularly with a "realistic" speed at lower voltage, you should put the insulators a couple of feet up the track to allow enough time for the points to get all the way over.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
locoi1sa Fello RR. A PSX-AR will work great. Depending on what turnout control/ motor you have there is a model for dual coil and motor driven like a tortoise. A decoder , auto polarity reverser, and circuit breaker all in one. http://www.dccspecialties.com/ Pete
Fello RR.
A PSX-AR will work great. Depending on what turnout control/ motor you have there is a model for dual coil and motor driven like a tortoise. A decoder , auto polarity reverser, and circuit breaker all in one.
http://www.dccspecialties.com/
Pete
I would stick with the Digitrax AR1. I once purchased a PSX-AR that continually failed to work and their customer service was no help, so I returned it where I bought it and replaced it with the Digitrax AR1.
Rich
Alton Junction
Here is a link directly to the PSX-AR instructions: http://www.dccspecialties.com/products/pdf/man_psxar.pdf
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Given that you already use a Digitrax system to power your layout, stick with it and purchase a Digtrax AR1 Autoreverser for $30. It requires four wires to hookup, two to the rails on your main layout and two to the rails of your reversing section. The only other requirement is to "isolate" the reversing section by gapping the rails or using insulated rail joiners.
My layout is a double decker single main 25x20 with a helix that takes it from one level to the other. The top is one huge reversing loop the meets (reverses) at the point of the helix. My question is what would work well for the reversing turnout to automatically reverse polarity and throw the switch so the train could run without me being there to throw that turnout. I know they make electronics to do this i just don't know what it is. Also i am having some shorting out issues. My layout is run by the digitrax zepher is this going to be enough amps or will i need to add a booster of some sort? Any one who could shed some light on this would be well appreciated. also any internet sights or diagrams on how to wire these reversing loops in dcc would also help.
Thanks, fello railroader