OK so I made a mistake and picked up a couple of the wrong Peco switches, and I didn't even notice. Ooops. I have 24 Peco insulfrogs right now and they were easy to install.
How do I convert the electrofrogs to insulfrogs? When I installed the electrofrog, it shorted the system when I threw the switch.
Is there an easy way of doing this? Or should I just eat it and get the insulfrogs?
Thanks,
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
I have converted Walthers Shinohara turnouts, but not PECOs.But it seems to me that you should be able to use the Electro Frogs without causing a system short. Did you try installing insulators at the ends of the rails that lead away from the frog?
There is nothing wrong with electrofrog turnouts, all there is to do is installing insulators at both diverging rail of the frog.
I personally only use electrofrog, as an all rail frog looks better then a plastic one.
Jack W.
If you power the frogs with switch motor contacts, it's super asy, as shown on Allan Gartner's site:
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches_peco.htm
Snip a couple of jumpers, and use insulated joiners. DCC friendly turnout with no dead spots to stall your train.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Ahhhhhhhhhh now that was too easy! I'm sure glad I was still able to use these switches. The reason I like the insulfrogs is no need for insulators.
Thanks guys, I appreciate the help.
Wait a minute, it did NOT work. It still shorts out after creating insulated gaps on both diverging rails. Do I need to cut those wires under the switch? That are linking the rails?
h
OK I'm good now, I had the gaps in the wrong place. Once I saw this other diagram it was easier for me to understand.
Michael,
So, when it failed, which rails do you incorrectly gap?
Rich
Alton Junction
Motley OK I'm good now, I had the gaps in the wrong place. Once I saw this other diagram it was easier for me to understand.
Did you just install the insulators, or did you have to also cut the jumper wires as Mr. Rinker suggested?
richhotrain Michael, So, when it failed, which rails do you incorrectly gap? Rich
Rich,
I had incorrectly gapped both of the diverging rails.
And I did not have to cut those wires underneath the switches.
I'm kind of liking the design on these with the metal frogs instead of the plastic ones on the insulfrogs. They look more reliable.
Another question, where do I place the gaps on a crossover with two of these switches? It seems there might be deadspot in the middle when you gap them in the same place for each? Do I gap them on both switches exactly the same, and run a power feeder to the middle dead section?
Gap both sides, feeder to middle. Or if you apply the other changes per Allan Gartner, you wouldn't have to gap anything, the frog feeder fromt he switch machine contacts would power the whole thing with the correct polarity, assuming you flipped both points t the same time - which makes sense since on straight through and one crossing over is not a valid setting.
If you simply insulate the frog rails and don't make the other changes, you are relying on the point to stock rail contact to power the point rails, closure rails, and the frog. The changes Allan Gartner recommends makes the turnout more DCC friendly by making each point rail the same polarity as the adjacent stock rail, so the backs of metal wheels cannot short out, and also adds jumpers for positive power to the point and closure rails. If you are powering the frog with switch motor contacts but have not made the other changes, then you hould have fairly decent power connections fromt he frog to the closure rails to the points except both point rails will be the same polarity.
Motley richhotrain: Michael, So, when it failed, which rails do you incorrectly gap? Rich Rich, I had incorrectly gapped both of the diverging rails. And I did not have to cut those wires underneath the switches. I'm kind of liking the design on these with the metal frogs instead of the plastic ones on the insulfrogs. They look more reliable.
richhotrain: Michael, So, when it failed, which rails do you incorrectly gap? Rich
I don't own any of the electrofrogs, but I have heard others as well say that the metal frogs look a lot more realistic than the plastic frogs on the insulfrogs.