Hi Medina,
Yes my layout will be only DC. Yes, my plan was to have two DPDT switches, one for power pack (I'm going to use two) and one for direction change. I plan on having a control panel that looks like my layout so I can put the direction control switch inline and the toggle will show me which way the train can go. And the other switch will be beside it or below it to show which power pack I'm set on (left or right). I was thinking of using the Radio Shack #275-1533 DPDT Center-off Toggle switch rated at 10A at 125VAC.
GSRACER
To All of you that replied to my request, I thank you. You were all very helpful and I know now I'm being very safe with my switch purchase.
Thanks again, GSRACER
Most switch and relay contacts are rated AC & DC. The package will just state the amps. A switch rated 5 amps will have a 5 amp 24 volt dc AND 5 amp 115 volts AC rating. This is because the AC current is going off 120 times a second and the switch will not always be switching the max current. For model railroad use just use the proper amp rating.
On my layout, I use 2-pole/6-position rotary switches (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062536) for cab selection for each block with DPDT switches (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062537) to turn on and off the actual power going out to each block. The switches are from Radio Shack.
Here's the back of my main control panel:
And the front:
Kevin
http://chatanuga.org/RailPage.html
http://chatanuga.org/WLMR.html
As a DC runner, I consider the current rating of an electrical switch more important than its voltage rating - especially since the least expensive available switches are almost always rated 125vac.
If you are throwing switches on circuits drawing power, then the current rating is critical. OTOH, most block selection is done with no power on the propulsion circuit. Since switch contacts will CARRY higher power than they are designed to SWITCH, even sub-mini toggles or slide switches are adequate for block selectors. I have used both, as well as rotary switches rated 0.3A, for block selectors, and then run ancient catenary motors with twin juice-hog open frame traction motors through the selected blocks. They gave years of satisfactory service (and some still do, on my present layout.) I wouldn't use the same switches to turn on lights in my model structures - the bulbs would overload the contacts.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - analog DC, MZL system)
i went to the local electronic supply store and got some triple pole , double throw center off switches. 125 volt ratings. This allows me to use an indicator bulb to show which block is active , or if i want to turn the block off, great for a passing siding.
GSRACER ....My power pack is 15.5 vdc, 18.5 vac, total 17 va. I went to Radio Shack to find some switches for my control block panel setup and could not find a 16 vdc switch. They had 12 vdc and 125 vac. My power pack is rated at 1.42 amps (17/12). Because I'm only using 1.42 amps, can I use a 10a, 125vac DPDT toggle switch? Or do I need to stay with a dc switch?
....My power pack is 15.5 vdc, 18.5 vac, total 17 va. I went to Radio Shack to find some switches for my control block panel setup and could not find a 16 vdc switch. They had 12 vdc and 125 vac. My power pack is rated at 1.42 amps (17/12). Because I'm only using 1.42 amps, can I use a 10a, 125vac DPDT toggle switch? Or do I need to stay with a dc switch?
Our systems are nominal 12 volts, just like our cars and small boats. Actual voltage is usually higher, especially when loads are light. But the switches are based on nominal voltage. If the switch is rated for the current - 1.5 amps or better - it will work fine. Any voltage rating of 12 volts or greater will also work fine.
Sometimes, switches will be rated for higher currents on AC than on DC, due to more arcing with heavy DC currents.
You don't say what the current rating of your other throttles/power packs are. If you are running single engines in HO or N, you should never see current draws of more than 1 amp. So a 1 amp, 12VDC toggle will do the job in the single engine situation. I like to use commonly available 3 amp toggles for DC blocks, but then I tend to do things to overkill.
Final thought - Radio Shack is probably the most expensive place to buy electrical components. You can buy for far less, and in needed quantities (so all your toggles match) from electronics parts suppliers like Newark, Allied, etc.
yours in layout wiring
Fred W
A toggle switch rated for 120 Volts AC or DC will work just fine for your purpose. I use Miniature double-pole double-throw center off toggle switches rated at 3 Amps, purchased in bulk from All Electronics; their catalog number MTS-12. I have wired close to 200 of these into a large HO scale club layout on the control panels and have had only one fail and need to be replaced over the years..
http://www.allelectronics.com
In order to direct you to the correct switch, let me ask you some questions?
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
All switches are DC or AC the last i knew but I may be wrong. All I have bought for many years were for AC & DC but times do change.
I usually buy switches rated for 125 volts as they are quite common but switches rated for 12 volts would work also. Just make sure of how much current they can handle.
I buy a lot from on line surplus shops and sometimes ebay but some of the switches from ebay have plastic insulation that cannot handle much soldering iron heat so I have to be quick with the soldering iron. I have been soldering since 1956 do not much of an issue when soldering.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
I'm very new to HO model railroading. I have my layout ready for laying down the track, however, I have a electical question. My power pack is 15.5 vdc, 18.5 vac, total 17 va. I went to Radio Shack to find some switches for my control block panel setup and could not find a 16 vdc switch. They had 12 vdc and 125 vac. My power pack is rated at 1.42 amps (17/12). Because I'm only using 1.42 amps, can I use a 10a, 125vac DPDT toggle switch? Or do I need to stay with a dc switch? Thank you in advance. GSRACER