Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

DCC-ing brass - best way of soldering?

1230 views
6 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: QLD, Australia
  • 1,111 posts
DCC-ing brass - best way of soldering?
Posted by tbdanny on Thursday, September 16, 2010 6:02 PM

Hi all,

I'm currently in the process of installing DCC in two HOn3 brass locomotives, and I'm having a rather unusual problem.  Both locos currently require a large starting voltage to get moving on DCC, despite the fact that their motors (Mashima) run with perfect slow-speed motion when tested on DC.  I currently have the decoder pickup wires soldered directly to the tender chassis, and I suspect that this may be the problem.  Would putting a screw into the chassis, then soldering the wire to the screw, help with this issue?

Thanks in advance,

tbdanny

The Location: Forests of the Pacific Northwest, Oregon
The Year: 1948
The Scale: On30
The Blog: http://bvlcorr.tumblr.com

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
  • 13,757 posts
Posted by cacole on Thursday, September 16, 2010 6:06 PM

If you cleaned the tender floor and used resin core solder or a resin solder flux that should not be your problem.  Adjusting CV2 to a higher value will give the motor more voltage at speed step 1.

It would also help if you tell us which brand and type of decoder you're installing, because some of them have a "kick start" voltage and duration CVs that can be adjusted along with CV 2.

  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Ulster Co. NY
  • 1,464 posts
Posted by larak on Thursday, September 16, 2010 9:47 PM

tbdanny

I currently have the decoder pickup wires soldered directly to the tender chassis, ....  Would putting a screw into the chassis, then soldering the wire to the screw, help with this issue?

No.  (Assuming that your soldered connection is solid).

The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open.  www.stremy.net

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: QLD, Australia
  • 1,111 posts
Posted by tbdanny on Thursday, September 16, 2010 10:02 PM

larak

 

 

 

No.  (Assuming that your soldered connection is solid).

I'm not entirely sure on that point.  I had a bit of difficulty getting the solder to 'take' to the tender chassis.

The Location: Forests of the Pacific Northwest, Oregon
The Year: 1948
The Scale: On30
The Blog: http://bvlcorr.tumblr.com

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Friday, September 17, 2010 5:33 AM

 Did you scrape it clean? A lot of unpainted brass has a clear coat on it, which may be why you had a problem soldering a wire to it.

                       --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: QLD, Australia
  • 1,111 posts
Posted by tbdanny on Friday, September 17, 2010 9:16 PM

Hi all,

I've got it sorted.  After re-soldering all the connections and making sure they were solid (thanks, Randy),  I discovered that the tender pickup scheme on the C-16, while fine for DC, didn't pull its weight when carrying a DCC signal.  Soldering the tender trucks directly to the decoder fixed the problem.

As for the C-18, well, the cause of that loco's problems became apparent when one of the tender truck sideframes disintegrated in my hands from metal fatigue.  Seems the previous owner used it a lot.

Thanks again for all your advice - it all helped.

Cheers,

Danny B

The Location: Forests of the Pacific Northwest, Oregon
The Year: 1948
The Scale: On30
The Blog: http://bvlcorr.tumblr.com

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
  • 13,757 posts
Posted by cacole on Saturday, September 18, 2010 7:26 AM

tbdanny

As for the C-18, well, the cause of that loco's problems became apparent when one of the tender truck sideframes disintegrated in my hands from metal fatigue.

That was a common problem with some manufacturers, who used inferior brass. 

Several years ago a woman brought a brass steam engine to the club that she was wanting to sell.

Her father had bought it when he was with the U.S. Army occupation forces in Japan sometime in the late 1940's or early 1950's.  I don't remember what brand name it was; a green box with black foam padding.  The foam had disintegrated and was stuck to the model.  Many small parts had fallen off due to poor soldering, and the boiler seams were separating because of the inferior solder.

No sale.

 

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!