This is the beginning of this install. Right now is what is inside this loco which came with horn hooks. The loco draws about 0.7 amps with drivers slipping. It runs quite nice with DC pulse power pack.
A Tsunami with the FM sound will be installed. Kapton tape will isolate the bottom motor brush.
Speaker location to be determined but should not be an issue as I have used the SoundTraxx rectangular speaker in other diesel installs with a baffle I make.
I will put a 1.5 volt bulb next to the headlight lens which is right next to the rear light pipe. Diesels at this time did not switch lights for different directions.
Any weight removal will be compensated for by adding the equivalent lead shot.
People have asked about this style loco before so the photos should help. Feel free to download and post anywhere you want.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
I just remembered a post about this loco back a few months ago that will help
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Walthers/H10-44/Walthers%20HO%20Scale%20H10-44.htm
This looks to be one of the old Walthers/Roco H-10-44's from the nineties?? I have one I converted to a Tsunami board. Works well but it was a bit of a job getting a 1/2" by 3/4" speaker and enclosure in there.
BTW, actually no real diesels (except maybe a tiny number) ever really have had the reversing headlights, past or present. It's a model thing. That came along 30 years ago or so, when modellers found they could use diodes to do the reversing headlights and decided it looked neat and impressed their friends. Eventually model manufacturers decided to offer it on their engines out of the factory.
OK, long time. Just started the install.
First I tapped the two motor mounting holes for 2-56. I also smoothed out the edges of the holes.
The tap pushes up the metal a little and will press thought the Kapton tape. Isolated the motor with Kapton tape.
I will use nylon screws. With my ohm meter, no continuity between the two frame pieces and motor contacts.
I had to rout out the two frame pieces a little because of the 2mm Phosphor Bronze strip and Kapton tape. The two strips bring out the motor contacts for the decoder wires.
I have some SMD LED's on the way. They will be mounted to the ends of the two light pipes that came with the loco.
I have a Tsunami light board type decoder with the FM sound and a 16mm X 35mm speaker. I will cut out some of the top weight for speaker location. The speaker will be up inside the shell with a baffle like I made for my Spectrum 44 ton and 70 ton sound installs.
You CAN safely solder the wires to the brush caps. hat looks to be alomst the same motor used in the Proto 2000 Alco switchers, which need a tab removed fromt he lower (orange wire) brush cap and a wire soldered on. It's safest to remove them (one at a time, and don't tip the motor over), but with a clean soldering iron you cna get the wire stuck on before it even comes close to being hot enough to melt the motor cap.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Since both parts of the frame press up near the brush caps, I went with a film of solder and the 2mm phosphor bronze strips plus a layer of Kapton tape.
I wanted an easily accessible point for attaching the decoder wires after the motor is in place.
I lightly cleaned each brush holder, applied a little rosin flux, with my Weller WLC100 at max heat, clean solder iron tip, quickly soldered the strips to the brush caps. Secure installation and no damage. I have been soldering since 1956 and have done SMD stuff also. Someone with little or no soldering experience could get into trouble with this kind of install.
Right now I am modifying the top frame. I had to cut off some and have to grind down the rest some for the decoder. I have weighed it on my Gram scale and will compensate after with bird shot. I also have some metal that liquefies at the boiling temp of water and I make some weights that way using plastic Lego blocks as forms.
Still continuing on.
Modified the upper frame and installed a Tsunami #828047 Fairbanks Morse H-12 decoder. The open frame motor with skewed armature draws about 0.720 amps. Runs very nice using a NCE Power Cab.
I will install the cap later.
I added some metal that melts at the boiling temp of water to the open are of the upper frame. I still need to add 0.3 oz to bring the weight back to original specs. I have a small digital scale I picked up off of ebay for less than $50.00.
A 16mm x 35mm speaker will be up inside the shell like I did with a Spectrum 44 ton and 70 ton. I will make a baffle using styrene.
Waiting for the smd led's s from Litchfield.
Some more photos.
Headlight photo. I have drilled a hole into the clear plastic piece and inserted a 1.6mm LED. Looks good from the front. Litchfield did not have the SMD in stock so I used what I have on hand.
I will do the same with the rear clear light rod.
How the speaker will mont over this position.
Nearly ready.