Hi.
We have two main "loops" and using twin turnout can run any train on either loop via switching....
We have a long siding or branch we wanted to connect the through also. The problem is it causes a short. If we make a big enough gap (with inso joiners) the loco will run throug it, but must be going about 1/4 speed. We want to be able to go thru slow. Too small a gap and loco causes the short.
One end has Peco insofrog and the other has atlas code 83 custom line turnout.
Two noobs need help!
Thanks.
Apparently the turnouts route power past them based on where the points are. Below the points and throwbar are metal contacts linked to a tiny bus that runs under the turnout and to the rails beyond the frog (the X part at the center of the turnout). When you turn the points the 'wrong' way, you get a short. What you have to do is to isolate one end of that siding by leaving a gap right where it joins the turnout. Pick one end, remove the joiners, and just rely on a couple of track nails there to keep alignment if you must. But do leave a gap of 1/16" at one end, and rely on the other turnout, the one with no gap and joiners still in place, to feed power to the siding.
-Crandell
Where are you putting the gaps?
Does the loco short at both ends of the siding, or only one?
If you run the train into this siding and all the way out the other end, and then proceed around the layout, does the train end up running in the opposite direction?
Guesses: The gaps are between the turnouts and the siding. The engine only shorts at the Peco end. The siding crosses diagonally, so that after running through it the train ends up going in the opposite direction.
The key question here is the third one. If this is the case, you've created a reverse loop, which requires some special wiring. In this case, the next thing you need to tell us is if you're running DC or DCC.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
oops! forgot.
DCC
It is a dead short. without cutting gaps I could not run anything.
I do not have districts or any of that set up yet.
OK can you post up your track plan?, so we can see if you have a reverse loop. Include the new siding in question.
If it's a reverse loop, you'll have to get an auto-reverser for DCC.
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
I am sad to say I do not have a way to post what I have.
I traced it out and as I already knew I have (with this siding) made a + to - and - to + short from one loop to the other. Is there a way around this without having to buy another power booster?
You may need a power reverser, not a power booster. You can get an MRC reverser for around 30-40 bucks or less (I'm not up on current prices).
Can you draw a track plan on paper, take picture of it and upload it?
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
The bargain-basement solution is to buy a double-pole, double-throw (DPDT) toggle switch. Insulate both ends of the siding on both rails. Run feeders from your power bus to the two center posts of the DPDT. Run wires from two posts on one end to the two rails of the siding. Connect these same two end posts to the posts on the other end of the DPDT, but cross the wires in the middle so they form an X. The DPDT now functions as a manual reverser. As you go into the siding, the toggle must be set one way. While the train is running through the siding, throw it the other way, and it will run smoothly out of the other end.
Digitrax has an auto reverser that will work with most any DCC system.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Although I described how to do this with a DPDT toggle, my recommendation is also to get an auto-reverser unit. One of the beauties of DCC is things like this that let you forget about gaps, stop running the track and concentrate on running the trains.
Personally, I would suggest getting an auto-reverser from www.tonystrains.com. These units are all solid-state. The switching time is very fast, and they also function as a circuit breaker for the track they control.
Thanks guys!
I think I could do the auto rev. unit. I was actually looking at the Tony's site this AM.
Yes I also reccomend the PSX-AR from Tony's, it works perfectly. And it's dead silent, unlike the Digitrax one which you can hear clicking noises when it changes polarity.
MisterBeasleyOne of the beauties of DCC is things like this that let you forget about gaps
Well, most of them anyway.