Hey guys, probably an easy answer for my problem but here it goes...When bringing a loop back around to your to tie into your mainline through a turnout, how or what do you use to insulate the track so that your not shorting your +/- together?
You can use nylon track connectors or simply gap the track on both ends of the loop.
You also have to reverse the current in the loop while the train is in the loop. You can do this with a switch or an electronic circuit made for that purpose.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
SpaceMouseYou also have to reverse the current in the loop while the train is in the loop. You can do this with a switch or an electronic circuit made for that purpose.
Ah, how quickly we forget....
The "auto-reverser" circuit that Chip is referring to is only available for DCC. Since we don't know if the OP is DC or DCC, we've got to be careful. In DC, you don't reverse the polarity of the loop, you reverse the polarity of the rest of the layout, or at least the part approaching the loop. In either case, though, the loop must be isolated from the layout, and must have its own power back to the source, with either a double-pole, double-throw (DPDT) toggle or a reverser unit in DCC. You can use a toggle in DCC as well, by the way.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
For DC I here's article where they placed a reed switch between the tracks to trip a home made ckt with DPDT relay to automatically reverse. A magnet on the bottom of the loco activated the switch. http://www.squidoo.com/AutorevHOTrolleyCircuit
Springfield PA
MisterBeasleyAh, how quickly we forget....
Actually, I made the switch to DCC long before I ran across my first reverse loop. A club I joined had many reverse loops, all of which were controlled by switches. I have an AR1 in my stuff but never used it.
U know who U are... don't even think about jumping in here to respond to Chip's goad!!!
-Crandell
To our originator, I would urge you to not use the plastic joiners. I found them hard to use, clunky, not nearly as positive in their alignment purpose as the metal joiners, and just not good to look at in my opinion. I would urge you to lay it as a monolithic rail, even soldering all the joiners if you wish, and then use a cut-off disk, if you feel comfortable and have the item, to simply cut a thin gap in the rails about two or three ties out from the turnout appliance you use. A razor hobby saw would work probably. But please do consider just leaving a thin gap, say 1/16". If you really don't like the gap for some reason, fill it with sheet styrene cut down to fit and glued into place.