I just bought an engine today, and when test run at the store, the front LED worked fine. The engine and tender were then separated and placed into the box by the owner, when I brought it home and put it on my track, everything else works fine but no headlight. Is there a way to fix this problem without sending it back to the factory? I have tried making sure the tether is firmly plugged in, which I think it is. Could the LED be loose or simply in need of replacement? How would I take the bulb out, or is there a wire inside the engine that perhaps came loose?
Its a Broadway Limited, blue Line J1a.
Btw, when it was test run at the store, the back up light never worked, nor does it now, so nothing has changed in that area. I'm not too worried about that one, just the front one.
Strange turn of events, I took out the tether plug and used a pencil to push it back in, now the tender light works for the first time ever, but no headlight!
First check for a bent pin inside the plug. Sometimes they can bend over.
After that make sure the entire plug is seated. BLI has memo's out pointing out the importance of proper seating. But as I said make sure a pin isn't bent.
Also are you running DCC or DC? If DC I'd first do the above. If it still doesn't run bring the loco back and have them reset the decoder.
Good Luck
Springfield PA
Hamltnblue First check for a bent pin inside the plug. Sometimes they can bend over. After that make sure the entire plug is seated. BLI has memo's out pointing out the importance of proper seating. But as I said make sure a pin isn't bent. Also are you running DCC or DC? If DC I'd first do the above. If it still doesn't run bring the loco back and have them reset the decoder. Good Luck
I'm running DC. I'll check the for a bent pin, thanks, I just hope I can see it lol.
Rats, no luck. It seems to be seated in firmly too. Its the strangest thing though, a few weeks ago, during one (of two) test runs, the store owner couldn't get the front light to work at all, so he removed the front 'door' or 'face' of the engine, revealing the LED, he then took some tweezers (or something?) behind the desk and fiddled with, put the hatch back on, turned on the power and the headlight worked. He said something was loose and that he fixed it, I'm not sure if he meant the bulb, some plug socket next to the bulb, or what, but it worked fine until I brought it home and turned on the power. No more light.
The situation is so weird, because now the back up light works, without me fiddling with anything. I've opened up the front of the engine now, I tried to 'push' in the bulb, but it seems tight enough already, won't budge, and I don't want to break anything.
BLI makes some beautiful locos, practically of brass quality, detail wise, but man, the QC issues are really frustrating. Oh how I hope I don't have to send this back to factory, all for a headlight..
I would take it back to the store. Shipping can bounce things around a bit, considering it's traveled half way around the world from China.
If the store wants your future business, they'll take care of it. After all it's new and you just bought it.
And things get even more strange. I just oiled the loco and powered it up, now the headlight works, but it has that dreaded flicker over certain parts of track, it must be a loose connection which is bad news for me.
I have had this exact same flickering problem with 3 Blue Line J1's brand new, this has never happend with any other engine, even from Broadway.
Now what connection I wonder could possibly be loose? I'll have to call Broadway when I have a chance and see if they can walk me through it. They did repair one of these for me once, but it took several months, maybe there is a simple solution of soldering something inside the loco, but I'm scared to do that.
Oh well, not the end of the world, just annoying.
If we're talking 4 loco's doing the same thing I think I'd look at the track, including cleaning, joiners, feeders etc.
Rjake, read your other thread.
I was goign to say it's the tether connector - 3 guys got the new T-1's at the show this past weekend, and as we decided to not allow smoke on the layout, everyone was pullign off the smokebox to flip the switch to turn off the smoker. The second guy, after doing this, noticed his headlight wasn't working. Thought maybe it got bumperd or something, turns out the plug fromt he tender was loose. Third guy - same thing. And it was the same problem, loose tender plug.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker I was goign to say it's the tether connector - 3 guys got the new T-1's at the show this past weekend, and as we decided to not allow smoke on the layout, everyone was pullign off the smokebox to flip the switch to turn off the smoker. The second guy, after doing this, noticed his headlight wasn't working. Thought maybe it got bumperd or something, turns out the plug fromt he tender was loose. Third guy - same thing. And it was the same problem, loose tender plug. --Randy
Yeah, I thought the tender plug was the problem, but no matter how secure the plug is, the light now isn't working again. Back to drawing board I guess...
I wonder, is there a correlation between my engine's flickering LED and the flickering that occurs in lit passenger cars? There must be some way to solve this without sending the engine back to Broadway. It seems like such a simple problem, but with no simple solution.
The other thing I noticed with my engine is that it runs jerky in both directions at any speed, so much so that the caboose behind all of the other rolling stock shakes back and forth, the effect is very noticeably and distracting. Is this in any way related to voltage levels? I think someone else brought this up on this forum, I can't remember the thread or find it.
Does the LED flicker when the loco is standing still? How about the passenger cars?
I think he said he's using DC so he wouldn't be able to have the locomotive standing still I believe... I have lots of problems with my locomotive headlights and I'm using DC, so maybe DC power isn't so constant... I have really clean track too. Hm. If the engines have decoders I'd recommend trying them on a DCC setup and see if the lights still flicker.
Modeling New Haven despite what his user name says...
Hamltnblue Does the LED flicker when the loco is standing still? How about the passenger cars?
No, they are fine standing still. The cars that flicker don't really bother me, I run the old athearns with the bulbs, so I figure it comes with the territory.
The J1 is a beautiful model, but electronically very fragile. I've never had this problem with any other model, broadway or not.
An update though, I have thoroughly cleaned the track with alcohol as well as the wheels of the engine and the rolling stock. The light seems to functioning better now. I hope thats all the problem was. You wouldn't believe how much black stuff came off from the wheels of the coal cars, that I don't understand because they are fairly new, but I'm glad I cleaned them. The engine wheels weren't all that dirty in comparison. The track overall was filthy, which again surprises me because its only 8 ft of track.
Thanks for the suggestions either way. It appears that this blue line version is very sensitive to any slight form of dirt or dust on the track which apparently may be greatly affecting the pick up. When lit, the LED is very nice. I hope Broadway fixes this problem in any future runs of this outstanding locomotive. So far with the Paragon 2 I1's I haven't had any issues with lighting, I hope this trend continues.
I don't know how much track you have but if it was that bad try running some 600 grit sand paper over it and doing another cleaning. You might have a build-up in spots that needs some more help.
Bad news, the engine locks up every few seconds in reverse at continuous speeds, resulting in random break squeal sounds, even when at full throttle. Then, the power goes out. I try to start it up in forwards, and turn up the throttle but it occasionally locks up and looses power without even moving more than a few inches. Should I try installing a TCS decoder with better speed control, or is this a purely a mechanincal problem with the locomotive?
Should I send it back to Broadway at this point? Or should I first buy a decoder and test it out on DCC?
My gut tells me the engine is defective and in need of repair...
If it is causing these kind of problems on DC then adding a decoder won't improve anything and may cost you a fried decoder. You should probably send the engine back for repair or exchange.
Joe
I would take it back to the hobby shop you got it at and run it on their layout to see if it does the same thing there.
It could be a loose wire internally, I had this issue with my first PCM Reading T-1, it ended up only picking up power with one side of one of the tender trucks, makign it overly sensitive to dirty track and turnouts. Once I found and fixed the loose wire (it was very obvious - it wasn't completely loose and flapping around bt it was clearly not seated int he connector properly) it ran like a champ, speed step 1 over unpowered frogs. With the wire in place there was pickup across one side of the loco plus the tender - plenty to span all but absolutely incredibly dirty track.
Randy
In another thread he has 3 other loco's acting up. It's why we've been centered on his power/track.
Unfortunately the store I went to has a no return policy, for any reason. The place is shady, the owner tried to tell me the reason the engine's back up light didn't work was "because there is no back up light on the Broadway J1"...
I guess its a case of buyer beware, and I made a bad decision buying from that place. Now it barely runs at all in either direction, horrible jerking, intermittent labored chuff and brake squealing to total power loss every few seconds.
Well, I guess I learned my lesson. Don't buy from these kinds of stores, especially ones that jack their prices up far above MSRP.
They are selling a Paragon Class A there for $650!
rjake4454 Unfortunately the store I went to has a no return policy, for any reason. The place is shady, the owner tried to tell me the reason the engine's back up light didn't work was "because there is no back up light on the Broadway J1"... I guess its a case of buyer beware, and I made a bad decision buying from that place. Now it barely runs at all in either direction, horrible jerking, intermittent labored chuff and brake squealing to total power loss every few seconds. Well, I guess I learned my lesson. Don't buy from these kinds of stores, especially ones that jack their prices up far above MSRP. They are selling a Paragon Class A there for $650!
Send it back to BLI. They will fix it or replace it. Call them first to get an RMA#.
Alton Junction
Hamltnblue Randy In another thread he has 3 other loco's acting up. It's why we've been centered on his power/track.
Yeah if it's not just this one it's the track/power supply.
Always simplify. Get 2 new wires and a single piece of track. COnnect track to power pack with new wires. See what happens then. If all the locos STILL have the problem, it's the power pack.
Rjake did you at least get the store owner to try it out while you were there?
Here's the product link. It shows that the J has a working tender back-up light. http://www.broadway-limited.com/5085bluelineprrj12-10-46165dcsounddccreadyho.aspx
Edit: Oh and one more thing. Go ahead and list the hobby shop you're having problems with. It might help someone down the line beware.
rjake4454. I'm not too worried about that one, just the front one.
Well, you've done everything I would have checked and at least you got the backup light working...my first suspicion would be those danged tether connections - you may have a broke pin inside of the connector.
I'd try re-setting the loco to default settings then power it up with F3 then F0 ...if that doesn't work, you're probably going to have to have that tether replaced.
You know, Matt at BLI might just send you a new tether connection set if you tell him what's going on with it.
Hope it works out okay.
HeritageFleet1
Hamltnblue Here's the product link. It shows that the J has a working tender back-up light. http://www.broadway-limited.com/5085bluelineprrj12-10-46165dcsounddccreadyho.aspx Edit: Oh and one more thing. Go ahead and list the hobby shop you're having problems with. It might help someone down the line beware.
Lets just say its a hobby shop in center city, philly. Its actually not primarily a train store, but they do have a small HO and N section. He mostly sells coins, stamps, model cars, model planes, among other things. Check your PM, I'll message you the name of the store momentarily.
Its definately a bad store, he tried to sell me a used DC Master with no box telling me that the list price was $70. I didn't go for it, knowing full well that the MSRP for one new was $39.99 , I actually drove all the way to Broomall, PA to go to another train store and bought it brand new for that price.
Actually the only reason I went there in the first place was because I had heard about it recently, so I decided to check it out, they were the only place I could find in the world that still had a J1 for sale, but as I said earlier, they nearly doubled the price on it. Looking back, I should have been patient and taken my business elsewhere.
I think I know the place. I haven't been there but have thought about going there a few times. Guess I won't now.
I was probably in the same broomall store a couple of times in the last week. It's NS trains. They have a lot of stuff. There are 2 good shops in lansdale as well. A bit more of a ride but worth it.
Heritage, the backup light wouldnt' be affected by the tether. I believe the decoder is in the tender so the tether shouldn't affect that light.