locoi1sa John. It is doable. Here is a couple links to a hardwired installation for you. They are nit the same locos but close to the same. http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Bachmann/Niagara%204-8-4/bachman_niagra_4-8-4.htm This is a Pacific but has the split frame and a block of metal where the smoke unit would have been. http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installati on_Pictures/HO_Scale/Bachmann/K4_Pacific_4-6-2/bachman_n_scale_k4_pacific_4_6_2.htm Hope these help. It will make you feel better running your dads gift. Pete
John.
It is doable. Here is a couple links to a hardwired installation for you. They are nit the same locos but close to the same.
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Bachmann/Niagara%204-8-4/bachman_niagra_4-8-4.htm
This is a Pacific but has the split frame and a block of metal where the smoke unit would have been.
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installati
on_Pictures/HO_Scale/Bachmann/K4_Pacific_4-6-2/bachman_n_scale_k4_pacific_4_6_2.htm
Hope these help. It will make you feel better running your dads gift.
Pete
Pete, Thanks for the links. I've got a GS-4 here that's about the same vintage as this one, the drive rods are all messed up on it and the flanges damaged on one of the wheels. I picked it up at a swapmeet for a few bucks with the intention of keeping it as a parts engine. Maybe I'll pull that one apart first so I can see what I'm getting into before I start in on the one in good condition. I really would like to run that one my dad gave me rather than display it if I can figure out how to get a decoder in it.
John
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Bachmann/K4_Pacific_4-6-2/bachman_n_scale_k4_pacific_4_6_2.htm
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
JS_IN_KY How did you end up isolating the motor on the one you did? John
How did you end up isolating the motor on the one you did?
The motor brushes have long, bronze spring wipers attached to them that press against the sides of the frame halves for electrical contact.
The decoder's motor output wires (Gray and Orange) have to be soldered to these, and then they must have electrical tape put over them so they no longer touch the frame halves when it is reassembled.
You then need to drill and tap holes in each frame half for the decoder's electrical pickup wires (Black and Red) in a location that will allow the boiler to fit back on over the screw heads. I attached these wires where the smoke generator had been.
cacole JS_IN_KY Having done that one do you think it would be easier to put the decoder in the tender? I would not attempt to install a decoder into the tender because you would need to add 6 wires between the tender and locomotive. The tender has no electrical pickups, so you would need two wires from the locomotive for power pickup for the decoder; two from the decoder to the motor; and two from the decoder to the headlight. And you must still totally disassemble the locomotive to get to the motor and electrically isolate it from the frame. If you wanted to retain the smoke generator and have it controlled by a decoder function, you'd need a decoder with a special smoke generator function output, which is very hard to find and expensive. Put your model in a display case on the mantle and buy a new one.
JS_IN_KY Having done that one do you think it would be easier to put the decoder in the tender?
Having done that one do you think it would be easier to put the decoder in the tender?
I would not attempt to install a decoder into the tender because you would need to add 6 wires between the tender and locomotive. The tender has no electrical pickups, so you would need two wires from the locomotive for power pickup for the decoder; two from the decoder to the motor; and two from the decoder to the headlight. And you must still totally disassemble the locomotive to get to the motor and electrically isolate it from the frame.
If you wanted to retain the smoke generator and have it controlled by a decoder function, you'd need a decoder with a special smoke generator function output, which is very hard to find and expensive.
Put your model in a display case on the mantle and buy a new one.
I don't care about the smoke generator, I forgot it even had one. It sounds like a good bit of work to pull one apart. Probably a little more than I should try to tackle for my first hardwire DCC install. I may either hold off on it for a bit or like you say look into another one. How did you end up isolating the motor on the one you did?
cacole I put a decoder into one for a fellow club member and will never again try such an install. The drive rods and wheels must all be removed so the frame can be disassembled to get to the motor and electrically isolate it from the frame. The motor is sandwiched between two split frame halves. The only location where even a TCS M-1 decoder would fit was to remove the smoke generator. I don't think the owner has ever gotten the wheels and drive rods back on. I refused to attempt disassembly and reassembly so I couldn't be accused of losing parts, and I think that's exactly what he has done. Hasn't Bachmann re-released this locomotive as a "DCC On-Board" model?
I put a decoder into one for a fellow club member and will never again try such an install.
The drive rods and wheels must all be removed so the frame can be disassembled to get to the motor and electrically isolate it from the frame. The motor is sandwiched between two split frame halves.
The only location where even a TCS M-1 decoder would fit was to remove the smoke generator.
I don't think the owner has ever gotten the wheels and drive rods back on. I refused to attempt disassembly and reassembly so I couldn't be accused of losing parts, and I think that's exactly what he has done.
Hasn't Bachmann re-released this locomotive as a "DCC On-Board" model?
Sounds like a lot of work. Having done that one do you think it would be easier to put the decoder in the tender? I think they have a DCC on-board model now. The only reason I wanted to do this one is because it was a gift I got from my father. He bought it for me in 1984 when we went to the Los Angeles Union Station to see the 4449 pulling the "Worlds Fair Daylight". If it's too much work though I might be better of keeping it as a display and buying an updated model.John
If it's an HO scale one, the DZ might get overloaded since I would assume the motor would pull quite a bit of amperage. There should be plenty of room in the tender, that would be the best place just in case you later want to swap out the decoder for a sound one. Only issue with converting older engines is usually making sure the engine is isolated from the frame and wheels.
I know the older Bachmann stuff isn't the best but I've got a older GS-4 (given to me as a gift in 1984) that runs nicely and I'd like to convert it to DCC and keet it around for sentimental reasons. Have any of you put a decoder in one? I don't want to do sound in it just basic functions plus headlight and MARS light. Will I need to put the decoder in the tender or do you think there's room in the engine for it? I've got a DZ143 on order for another project, would that be a good decoder to put in there?Thanks, John