Will this make it easier to solder my feeders to my buss under the bench? I am never going to get done with my soldering gun. Will the gas leave residue on the wire that will affect the connection? Under bench feeder soldering is torture. Thanks.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32147&cat=1,43456,43469&ap=1
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
I think you'll get done pretty quickly when the torch sets the railroad on fire. If you don't want to solder, then maybe you need to look into suitcase connectors. I wouldn't use anything with a live flame.
I wouldn't do that. If this thing is hot enough to do pipe soldering, as indicated by the photo, then it's way to much for light wiring.
What's wrong with your soldering gun? Have you tried removing the tip, cleaning both the contacts and the hot tip and putting it back together? How about replacing the tip? When you use it, do you have a damp sponge handy to clean off excess flux and keep the tip shiny?
I use a pencil iron. The same rules apply. I like an iron that stays hot rather than a gun which temperature-cycles whenever you push the trigger, but that's a personal preference. Once I've got the iron running, all I need to do is touch the joint for a few seconds and the solder flows right on. Your soldering gun should be able to do the same.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Actually I have the Weller 260/200 gun. However, do to old sports injuries I find it very difficult to hold it up to the wire under the bench. A jeweler friend suggested one of these. They are very light and would heat quickly. But you may be right.
My pencil iron is very light. It's got plenty of power for things like feeder-to-bus soldering, but it's adjustable so I can crank it down for decoder and circuit-board work. Because it's small and light, I like it a lot better for most work where there are nearby things I don't want to solder.
If you use that torch, you better be good. I suspect you will have more torture using that device than using a soldering gun. You must enjoy pain. Think of things under the layout in front of the flame?
The gas will not be an issue. Flames will be an issue.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Don't worry. The heat from the burning benchwork will make a good soldering connection.
I have a similar torch at work but would never use it around tight flammable places. It puts out enough heat to melt the insulation off wires.
Another alternative is crimp on terminals to a terminal strip. There are a multitude of alternatives beside solder. Wire wrapping is another.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
When using the solder gun, make sure both wires are clean and you have flux applied before starting. No flux equals a significant amount of time added to the job. If you use a torch, make sure you have a spray bottle with water in it to put out any small fires that may spring up.
Springfield PA
I was going absolutely crazy when I was under my benchwork trying to solder wires, and then I discovered flux! Wow what a difference that makes.
No dingle balls dripping all over the floor either!
oh and something about a torch + gas,+ open flame + wood = can't be good.
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
Motley I was going absolutely crazy when I was under my benchwork trying to solder wires, and then I discovered flux! Wow what a difference that makes. No dingle balls dripping all over the floor either! oh and something about a torch + gas,+ open flame + wood = can't be good.
Could not agree more. FLUX is the key to soldering feeder wires to bus wires under the layout.
Alton Junction
If fire is not an issue, and the possibility of burning your house down does not bother you, try this:
http://www.blotorches.com/
Hmm, I don't put flux on my wires and I have no issues soldering #20 feeders to #12 bus wires - I do however use a 150 watt soldering gun, my small soldering iron I use for decoder installs won't even heat up the #12 wire. Just like the soldering iron, a clean, tinned, and shiny tip is the key. The bus wire is stripped in-line with an Ideal strip tool, the end is stripped on the feed wire,a dn I wrap it tightly around the stripped part of the bus wire. Apply heat witht he big gun, apply solder, done. It's much easier with this layout because the benchwork is higher plus the room has carpet.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Okay fine.... This thread should be preserved as it is probably the first time everyone agreed so emphatically on something. I guess I must have watched a little too much of "Tim The Toolman".
I just hope my Gravestone reads "He Finished All His Soldering"
I use one of these. A little pricey but absolutely the most versatile iron I've ever owned. It easily handles 12 ga. connections, rail joints and feeders, and can be adjusted down low for decoder wires.
If you're going to use an open flame propane torch to solder wires under the layout, I hope you have the fire department's number on speed dial and your telephone close by.
rrinkerThe bus wire is stripped in-line with an Ideal strip tool
How well does that tool work? I've been thinking of getting one just for the bus lines under the layout, which are such a bear to strip inline. I've also got structure lighting buses. Will it work on #22 wire as well as the thicker stuff? Thanks.
BATMAN Okay fine.... This thread should be preserved as it is probably the first time everyone agreed so emphatically on something. I guess I must have watched a little too much of "Tim The Toolman". I just hope my Gravestone reads "He Finished All His Soldering" Brent
LOL we finally all agreed on something. That this idea was crazy. Good luck with the soldering, hopefully you learned new techniques to ease the pain.
Your buss wire doesn't have to have a jacket on it. I simply used 2 strands of bare copper ground wire. Very cheap when bought that way and adding feeders is very easy since you don't have to strip the buss.
PLEASE do not do that! It is a recipe for disaster.
I would urge you to get a soldering gun, rather than an iron to handle those bigger jobs. A gun will give you all the heat you need, and yet will cool off rather quickly when you let go of the trigger. Also, most soldering guns will light the work area as well.
Oh, one other thing......... when soldering under the layout (especially), wear safety glasses, and long sleeve shirt as well. Gee, sounds like the voice of experience, doesn't it?
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
MisterBeasley rrinkerThe bus wire is stripped in-line with an Ideal strip tool How well does that tool work? I've been thinking of getting one just for the bus lines under the layout, which are such a bear to strip inline. I've also got structure lighting buses. Will it work on #22 wire as well as the thicker stuff? Thanks.
Run, don't walk, to Home Depot or wherever and get one. If you've never used one of these - it is simply the best wire stripper there is. It handles all sizes from 10-22 (and I think they have another one for a different range of sizes). Since it works by clamping on the wire with one jaw and pulling the the strippign die over the wire, it can strip the ends of the wire as well as push back the insualtion in the middle of a long run. That's exaqctly what I do - you also need a wire cutter since this tool doesn;t have a cutter in it. I cut my feeders to length, then grab the stripper and strip teh feeders, then I strip a section of each bus wire near the feeders. Very quick and nearly foolproof. Better by a mile than any of those plier type strippers, or the ones they advertise on TV (usually with the cold heat soldering irons) that grab on to the end of the wire.
'
BATMANA jeweler friend suggested one of these.
Some friend! LOL
Don't use the torch. Do get some liquid or paste RESIN flux and try pre-tinning the wires so all you have to do is "sweat" the joint together.
If you really have issues with the weight of the gun and working below the table maybe you should consider 3M Scotchlock, (Suitcase) connectors instead?