It's a 'feature' of the S-1. Technically the motor IS isolated from the track. However, the bottom motor brush wire is connected to the frame. Everything's fine until you derail - it's pretty easy for a wheel to touch the rail and the frame at the same time (flex the truck in your hand and you can see this is easily possible). Should that happen, the motor is no longer isolated from the track and the decoder is going to let out all the magic smoke. It will probably still make nice noises, but it's not going to move. It's pretty easy to fix, new orange wire on the bottom brush and a piece of kapton tape over it to keep it from touching the frame.
--rANDY
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Thanks for all the good info. I wasn't aware the Proto 2000s needed the motor isolated. I thought that was specific to the older Athearns. Thanks again. I've got three Proto 2000 R-1s to work on.
That's why I like the Loksounds - that's much more prototypical than the others where the loco starts rolling and then the engine sound revs up. You can get the same effect on others using momentum but then you've got delayed throttle response at every speed step which you may or may not want.
--Randy
hobo9941 So how is the sound? And what did it cost you to have it installed?
The sound is really good. I think the installation fee was about $35, which I thought was pretty reasonable.
One thing about the LokSound decoder, though. There is a built-in engine "wind-up" time, so even with no momentum programmed in, there is a delay before the engine starts moving. This is not programmable. I suppose it's more prototypical, and I've gotten used to it, but at first it was kind of annoying.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I put a LokSound micro in one.
I had to perform heavy mods, mostly to isolate the motor.
Instead of using tape, as suggested elsewhere, I drilled out the space under the motor, which also gave me a new path for the speaker wires.
The speaker that came with the miceo is a perfect fit for the fuel tank area.
I do not have a baffle in this one, and it sounds fine to me.
If you like them loud, maybe not the best solution.
I run mine at about 25% of the factory setting anyway, and have several with no baffles, as the shell provides (IMO) plenty of "cabinet space".
Also IMO, most baffles are way too small. There are actually formulas for enclosure volume and porting based on the specifications of each speaker. I don't think I've ever seen anyone follow this. They just seal up the back of the speaker. This is not always an enhancement. Some speakers are actually designed for "infinite baffle", ie- no enclosure.
This is my second most popular diesael loco, due to the quality sound and outstanding control.
So how is the sound? And what did it cost you to have it installed?
I have one with a LokSound decoder in it. This is the only electronics installation I paid someone else to do. It was well worth it. I haven't looked inside the shell. In part, that's because I'm not sure I could ever get it all back together. I'm very happy with it.
Good sound is a very subjective issue. I have HO scale steamers and diesels with sound and non are close to prototypical sound. I don't care how good your installs are, still not like proto sounds. We are just boys playing with toys, though some quite expensive and nicely detailed.
Your reality version may differ.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
The Location: Forests of the Pacific Northwest, OregonThe Year: 1948The Scale: On30The Blog: http://bvlcorr.tumblr.com
Has anyone put sound in a Proto 2000 S-1 switcher? There's not a lot of room in there. I can see where maybe a small N gauge decoder might fit, and possibly a 1/2 inch speaker. But I'm wondering what kind of sound I would get from a 1/2 inch speaker, and if it would be worth the trouble.