Im glad your install went as well and easy as it did. For a first timer its a good learning install. Im just sorry your post turned into a battle over speakers and enclosures. Goodluck with any future installs. MartyG
That was easy!
Last weekend the decoder and supplies I ordered from Litchfield Station arrived and I installed the sound decoder without a problem. I went with the Soundtraxx Tsunami TSU-1000 Medium Steam.
Because the speaker and baffle were both very low profile I decided to use the baffle. They fit neatly under the board with the 8-pin port and the soldered wires. It was only necessary for me to solder the two purple wires to the speaker.
The two weights that came in the tendor had to be discarded, but I replaced them with eight .5 onze lead weights.
My only regret is that the 9-pin JST to 8-pin NMRA adaptor only has wires about .75 inches long. I should have ordered an adaptor with longer wires, say two inches, so that the decoder would lay down better in the tendor. It works fine the way it is and I can always swap out the adaptor later.
The sound is excellent and I have been having fun playing with it on my test track. I can not wait to take it to the club and run it on our huge track. I have yet to show it to my wife, it is, after all, her locomotive!
Thanks again for all the advise. This went a lot easier than I thought it would and it gives me more confidence to tackle another decoder project.
Im not very good on these boards at writing things and I will be the first to admit it . As for spelling ,Not a strong point either.I do the best I can .As for expertise.No dont have any of that .Im just someone who enjoys this hobby and if I can help out someone I will. I spend hours aday reading posts,going through boards and reading of all things installation manuels .Something alot of people dont do .They seem to think its just part of the packaging. Have a great day David and by for now . MartyG . P.S. Hope I did better on this reply.......
Well seems I have hit a nerve.If you take the top off of a BLI tender you will find no enclosure or baffle.Same with there diesel locos.They use the shell of the tender or loco as the enclosure.a baffle or enclosure is designed and used to stop cross reverberation contamination.Meaning soundwaves from the back dont cancelle out the front.I have Looked at alot of sound decoders and so far the only ones who used there heads with sound was QSI.They started with the speaker and went from there .Seems everyone else started with the decoder and hoped for the best .You can have all the great digital sound you want but if you dont design the speaker box right it wont sound right.If you take a highend speaker box apart and look inside it has a layer of sound absorbing cotton in it and an air hole in it somewhere .there are no enclosures over each speaker in the box .A tender acts the same .The other thing QSI did was match the speaker to the decoder.Look at a QSI speaker and you will find it to be .4 or ,5 of a watt .The others are .1 at best.So in the end your speaker is not a match.Take a decoder and it doesnt matter who s you use .Hook it to a fullsize house speaker and hear what you get .Now your getting close to full size sound.So by not putting an enclosure or a baffle over a speaker you create the same speaker box.If it rattles abit use what the pros use .A few cotton balls in the tender will help out alot.I enjoy full robust sound in all my locos and work on them to get just that.Any place I have run my locos everybody enjoys the sound of them .Just that alone has gotten me alot of work.When I give a loco back to a customer they are happy with what they have .Maybe once try it without a baffle or enclosure and see what you get .I didnt come on here to prove anybody right or wrong.I came on here because somebody asked for help and thats all I gave .I have done many installs in these locos and this is what I have found works.Oh and by the way .I would take a soundtraxx decoder over a QSI anyday .Its just they got their sound right first.Goodluck .MartyG
"Because the speaker is going in a tender an enclosure is not required."
This is not true at all, the enclosure has nothing really to do in regards to mounting the speaker but rather it acts as a baffle chamber for sound reverberation. I highly recommend you look at SoundTraxx enclosures or any other brand. As quoted from their website (Speaker Enclosures are designed to enhance the volume and clarity of any speaker installation. Our enclosures simply snap together - kits require some assembly.)
One of my friends makes his out of pvc tubing that can be found in any home center, I picked up a nice trick from one of the guys in my LHS who showed me how to make enclosures out of sheet lead. The extra weight form the lead completely stops all reverberation. A good way of understanding this is with your locomotive on the track turn on the sound and make note of how it sounds now firmly grip the shell tight so as to prevent it from vibrating and see if you hear a difference. It really does make a difference.
This 2-8-4 already has LEDs for headlights and reverse and no little capsitors to screw things up .These ones as compared to the others they were putting out seem alot better.I know the ones I have done the customers were very happy with what they now have .These make for a nice install for a first timers.The only problem with removing the board and soldering to the wires direct is the color of the wires dont match a decoder harness.For a first timer I dont think its the way to go and if you leave the board in you dont have to install resistors which is a bonus.MartyG
And take note from a couple of other threads in this section - with Bachmann locos it is probably best to compltely remove any electronics already in place and solder the decoder wires right to the motor wires and track pickups. Use a 1K resistor with the LED headlight.
Bachmann adds a capacitor or two in parallel with the motor and a couple of rf chokes in series with the motor leads to cut down on rf emissions. These extra bits also do a great job of filtering out high frequency motor drive and BEMF signals - neither of which the el-cheapy included decoder have, but a good sound decoder like a Tsunami or QSI does. Operation will be much smoother without those unecessary extra bits.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
The ones I did I removed the weight plates and put the weight on both ends.As I said an enclosure is not needed .the only time one is needed is when both sides of the speaker are exposed to eachother .You want the sound to move in the tender as it will act as a speaker enclosure all on its own.If you use a sub woofer in it it will sound very deep and the loco will sound heavy and robust.I have done 3 where the tender light changed color in reverse and 1 like yours where it doesnt.The other thing you can do is use the harness thats there .Cut it an inch or so from the decoder and just solder that plug to the new decoder.Im sure you wont want to use the old decoder in anything else.Some shrink tube over the soldered wires and your good.You picked a nice one for a first instal .Goodluck and enjoy.MartyG
Last night I opened the tender up to examine how the Lenz decoder is installed. It looks pretty roomy. I see what MartyG is referring to about putting the speaker under the board, but it looks like there is enough room for a speaker, a baffle, the board, and the Tsunami decoder if I remove the weights that come with the tender and replace them with other lead weights placed on the floor of the tender.
I feel comfortable soldering, so I will probably just solder the decoder to a NMRA 8-pin connector and plug that into the board.
This is going to be my first, of what I hope is many, sound decoder installs so I am approaching it as a learning experience. I do appreciate all the tips.
Curiously, I noted that my backup light only glows yellow and not red. I wonder if Bachmann dropped that feature in this production run?
Because the speaker is going in a tender an enclosure is not required.The board sits about 3/4 of an inch above the tender floor.2 screws hold the board in place and the speaker sits under the board.But you have to insulate between the top of the pseaker and the bottom of the board.a piece of tape on top of the speaker is good.That is unless you go with a flat speaker then nothing is needed.I suggest keeping the factory board in it as the reverse light on the tender changes color depending on the direction.In forward it is red ,in reverse it goes almost yellow .these are a nice install.As was stated you can get a JST to 8 pin jumper and the only soldering will be your speaker.A medium steam is good for this .A heavy steam is more set up for articulated .Setting the chuff rate is abit tough.If its your first one make it as easy for yourself as you can.There is enough room in the tender that the TSU1000 can sit on the floor behind the stock board .It plugs in the top and all wiring will fit in nice and neat.2 sided tape is good for this .Hope this helps.MartyG
the 2-84 is a good size locomotive but not as big as others like the 2-6-6-6 and big boys or challenger... considering a 0-6-0 for example would be a light, i would probably go with the medium. hope this helps ...bowen
MartyG Solder a 8 pin plug on the TSU1000 and set it up
Solder a 8 pin plug on the TSU1000 and set it up
If you're not adept at soldering you can purchase a replacement harness with the NMRA 8-pin plug on one end and the JST plug on the other, and simply replace the harness that comes with the Tsunami.
Replacement harnesses are available in various lengths and plug configurations from the major decoder dealers such as Litchfield Station, Tony's Trains, Ulrich Hobby Shop, Empire Northern Models, etc.
I appreciate the tips, thanks folks. This will be my first decoder installation and I want to make sure I do it right.
MartyG, I read your suggestion to put electronic tape on the speaker to prevent a short, but would this be necessary if I put the speaker in a baffle?
I have yet to open up the tender, but the schematics that came with the locomotive and the observable holes cut in the bottom of the tender makes me think this should be relatively easy to do.
As the others have said throw away the stock decoder.A good decoder will take away the hum.I have done 4 instals in this type of loco.Go with a TSU1000 medium steam and a bass speaker.It fits perfectly under the board thats there and the stock board has a 8 pin plugin.Solder a 8 pin plug on the TSU1000 and set it up .You wont belive the difference .Just make sure you put some tape on the top of the speaker so as not to short out the board.Goodluck.MartyG
First off yes that Lenz decoder is garbage removing it will be one of the best things you can do no question bout it. As far as the choice of sound decoder I am in agreement that Tsunami TSU 1000 will be the way to go but not toally sure on weather a medium steam or heavy steam will be more appropriate. If you click on the link below and compare the differences between heavy and medium steam sound decoders you will some are better suited for different railroads such as N&W, B&) Southern etc. each having unique whistle sounds.
So your loco not being one mentioned you can either choose which one you fell comes closest or what sound you like the best or if things like that don't really matter to you then flip a coin. One thing I will advise you to most definitely do is use a good enclosure and good quality speaker. I don't care what decoder you use it's only as good as the speaker the sound comes out of.
http://www.soundtraxx.com/dsd/tsunami/1000.php
A Tsunami Heavy Steam would be the most appropriate for this engine.
The stock decoder used by Bachmann is a very watered down Lenz product with very limited functionality and no adjustment of the drive frequency, so replacing it will probably stop the hum.
I just purchased a Bachmann 2-8-4 and I would like to install a sound decoder. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. I note that the tender already has a place for a speaker and holes in the floor for the sound to come out.
The locomotive has an annoying hum that several other posters have commented upon. I see a suggestion that the locomotive might need lubrication. I will do so, but is there anything else I can do to control the hum when it starts and stops. Will replacing the Bachmann decoder with a new DCC and sound decoder resolve the hum?