Hello Group,
Here is my up date. I installed the new Nce da-sr decoder in my proto 2000 sd7. Had to make some adjustments because the broad was a little to short. I used a little double back to mount the board because i was concerned of the height and the shell not fitting down all the way and that worked out just fine. I installed leds for front and rear lights. I had to extend the leads because of the short board, but they worked out great. Got everything set up and even have the lights working according to rule 17. Thanks to all of you for all the input i recieved. It really helped me a great deal.
Railcon44
And for good measure, here's a P2K SD7 with a TCS T-1 and golden-white LEDS.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Stock P2K SD7 on top, one with TCS A4X below.
Fits nicely. I think I used a little double-sided tape to hold it in place, and insulate from the metal weight. Runs much better with all the diodes and whatnot gone.
The stock headlights are 1.5 volt bulbs, not very bright. The A4X board has resistors on the board for LEDs, just have to solder to different points. If using 1.5 volt bulbs, the A6X is the hot setup. Regulator right on the board, 6 function decoder.
Mike WSOR engineer | HO scale since 1988 | Visit our club www.WCGandyDancers.com
That's good.
My SD9s are the original Life Like first run. I should have figured with P2K you never know whats under the hood until you open it.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
If your SD7 is like my SD9s then the DASR decoder is not the one you want. You will have to remove some weight to make that long decoder fit and put the shell back on. Plus you run the risk of shorting the decoder against the weight unless you wrap some Kapton tape over it. A D13SRJ would be a better fit. You will need two 1K resistors and two sunny white LEDs for this decoder. Hard wired in and still replaceable with the 9 pin JST plug.
The DA-Sr is a decoder and a board all in the same unit.
Jack W.
Wouldn't this replacement board plus a new decoder add to the costs. If you are looking for quick repair, fine. I would just hardwire the new decoder as mentioned.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
If you're going to put a decoder in anyway, there's absolutely no use for the factory diode board. Get a decoder with wires and just solder the orange and grey to the motor leads, and the red and black to the truck pickups. I prefer LEDs for lights, so a couple of golden-white LEDs and 1K resistors hooked to the white and yellow and blue wires on the decoder and you're all set. You can get a decoder for the $15 the replacement DC board will cost.
I replaced the original board with an NCE DA-SR decoder, fits nicely. I also replaced the light bulbs with Led.
I did the same thing with my SD 7. Called Proto ? Walther's and got a new board for $15.00 or so. If you look at the Digitrax site I am 90 % sure they will have a decoder that will replaces the whole board.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust