Probably got lucky then, they DO make dimmers for inductive loads that would work OK with a transformer, but the common kind sold for dimming incandescent lights is not going to work and will have the results mentioned above.
I'd say use the diode method, it works well, is cheap and simple and nothing gets hot. I did that on an N scale layout I built a long time ago and it worked very well.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rudywaWas the dimmer between power and transforer or the transformer and lights?
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Mark R.I'm thinking you got lucky - I would NOT recommend controlling a transformer with a dimmer !!!
Alan Jones in Sunny Queensland (Oz)
jeffrey-wimberly The way I did it years ago was to wire a lamp dimmer in line between the wall socket and the power pack I was using.
The way I did it years ago was to wire a lamp dimmer in line between the wall socket and the power pack I was using.
I'm thinking you got lucky - I would NOT recommend controlling a transformer with a dimmer !!!
All phase control dimmers are non-linear loads. A non-linear load is one where current is not in proportion to voltage. The non-linear load on dimming systems is caused by the fact that current is switched on for only part of the line cycle by a phase control dimming system. This non-linear load creates harmonic distortion on the service feeder. Excess harmonic currents cause conductors and the steel cores of transformers and motors to heat. Sometimes the heating of the distribution transformer can be a problem, because transformers are rated for undistorted 50 Hz or 60 Hz load currents. When load currents are non-linear and have substantial harmonic content, they cause considerably more heating than the same undistorted current.
You could be asking for trouble should sufficient heat builds up causing the core to break down. A definite fire potential would be at stake here !
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Doc in CT If you buy the "wall wart", double check the voltage with a meter. I checked a 9volt the other day and it was pumping out 15volts !!
If you buy the "wall wart", double check the voltage with a meter. I checked a 9volt the other day and it was pumping out 15volts !!
Co-owner of the proposed CT River Valley RR (HO scale) http://home.comcast.net/~docinct/CTRiverValleyRR/
JoeinPAjeffrey-wimberly The way I did it years ago was to wire a lamp dimmer in line between the wall socket and the power pack I was using. Jeffrey:That reminds me of an acquaintance who was using a variable transformer (Variac) set to 10 volts to power his lights. He failed to lock down the adjustment knob and it got bumped and "migrated" to a much higher voltage with an interesting fireworks display from his pike.Joe
Jeffrey:
That reminds me of an acquaintance who was using a variable transformer (Variac) set to 10 volts to power his lights. He failed to lock down the adjustment knob and it got bumped and "migrated" to a much higher voltage with an interesting fireworks display from his pike.
Joe
JoeinPAjwhitten Be careful not to burn your fingers!(Or anything else-- that's asking for trouble if you're not certain what you're up to.) I guess my problem is that I continually assume that people use common sense.Joe
jwhitten Be careful not to burn your fingers!(Or anything else-- that's asking for trouble if you're not certain what you're up to.)
Be careful not to burn your fingers!
(Or anything else-- that's asking for trouble if you're not certain what you're up to.)
I guess my problem is that I continually assume that people use common sense.
I find that, despite its moniker, common sense usually ain't.
John
JoeinPA The simplest way would be to place a high watt resister in series with one of the AC feeds. The value (Ohms) of the resister would be determined by how much dimming you want.Joe
The simplest way would be to place a high watt resister in series with one of the AC feeds. The value (Ohms) of the resister would be determined by how much dimming you want.
Allegheny2-6-6-6 No the simplest way is to go buy a wall wart transformer for about $10.00 in a lower voltage. If you are not 100% sure of what your doing with electricity it's best off you don't mess with stuff like that. The way my luck runs I would have the FD in my dirve way the next day drowning my layout with a 2" line.
No the simplest way is to go buy a wall wart transformer for about $10.00 in a lower voltage. If you are not 100% sure of what your doing with electricity it's best off you don't mess with stuff like that. The way my luck runs I would have the FD in my dirve way the next day drowning my layout with a 2" line.
That's the way I would go too. Why take chances if you don't know what you are doing?
Alton Junction
Or, put a diode in series with the lights, if half-voltage would do the job for you. One plus - no resistor heat to deal with. Negative - only half-voltage as an option. (yes, actually half-wave DC, but the effective power is half of the AC supplied)
Any of you Electrical experts know how to take the 19v AC output on my power pack usually used for accessories, dim the output with a variable knob so the bulbs last longer, I use the DC on spare packs to dim lights but I would like to be able to do that with my 19v AC leads.
Thank You