All, I plan to use Tortoises around our whole layout. Currently our layout is with foam board and plywood. I was thinking about using my liquid nail to glue everything down and then going back and wiring the Tortoises. Does anyone see a problem with this? It appears I just need to lealve a big enough hole beneath the manual switch to accomodate the arm.
Once again Thanks!
I don't see a problem with the plan for simply leaving operating holes for your switch machines. Where I see a source of potential heartburn is the idea of using liquid nails to anchor track.
Like many others, I use latex caulk. It's much more forgiving when the time comes to lift track to change the track plan or salvage track from a layout being disassembled.. (Trust me, you will someday want/need to lift track.)
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I kinda thought about the liquid nail thing a bit late. I am still new to this. In fact I never even got a switch machine to work except the Atlas one.
I've used both adhesive caulk and construction adhesive to put down track. I'm dropping the adhsive caulk and going back to construction adhesive. My preference is PL construction (the brown stuff) ESPECIALLY on rigis foam insulation.
Contrary to what Chuck has posted, it is very easy to remove track or cork that has been put down with PL from foam. I've done it!. Adhsive caulk dries too fast, in other words you have very little time to work with it if apply a thin, skim coat as recommended. The PL has a longer work time but is very tacky.
This get a big HUH? from me, as I use adhesive caulk and there's more than enough time to shift things around before it dries. If it dried as fast as you say, I wouldn't be able to spread out 9+ feet at a time then go back and lay the track on it. It's tacky right away - I don;t see that as a negative, it holds the track in place until I add weights or, my preference, insert pushpins to hold it down untilt he next day. After an hour or two it's probably not going anywhere but I leave the pins in place usually a full 24 hours, especially at critical locations like joints.
Perhaps it's the clear stuff I use, it comes out of the tube white, and is still white when I spread it thing, thing enough to see my pencil lines for the centerline. It's several hours before it is 100% clear, indicating it's dry - although even at this stage it's still tacky. I use PolySeamSeal brand, used to be able to get it at either Lowes or Home Depot but lately I've only found it in Lowes. All latex, not a silicon blend - drying characteristics of caulk with silicon may be different.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I simply use white glue to put down the foam roadbed with rail nails to tack the track to the foam. When I ballast the track the 50% mix of white glue and ballast hold the track in place. Nothing else needed.
Springfield PA