Engine stops every time at a certain point on the track

[rrinker]

 Matter of fact I was just in Harbor Freight tonight and they have the nicer one with the transistor checker in a bin priced at $2.99. If I didn;t already have 3 or 4 I would have picked up a couple more. As it is I have one on the layout, one in my toolbox, one in the computer desk, and one in my car. Yes, I have problems

 Seriously - probably one of the most useful tools when working on the layout or locos. The Harbor Freight ones aren't for precision electronics work or high voltage/high current use, but for a model railroad they are perfect. There's no need to buy a $100+ fancy meter just to check track voltage and wiring continuity.

                                          --Randy

[cacole]

Steve & Noah

My son just won a really cool train layout that was a display at model train show. We watched the two engines buzz around the track many times while at the show.

Did the engines at the show ever try to cross from one loop to the other?   Maybe the two loops are wired in oppositve polarity to each other on purpose so two trains can run in opposite directions, or are wired individually and you need to have two power packs connected to the layout.

You need to get a multimeter and check both loops to see if they have been wired in such a way that two separate controllers are required, or if they are in opposite polarity when connected to one controller.

A VOM can be bought at Harbor Freight for $2.99 or so.

 

[MisterBeasley]

NYC-Big 4

Is it DCC or DC?  If DC there may be a block that is not turned on.

If this is DC, I'm guessing that the two ovals are wired as separate blocks, so you can run trains in different directions on each oval.  Each oval should have at least its own direction switch, and preferably its own speed control as well.  When crossing over, the direction switches must be set in the same direction, and the throttles should be about the same, too.

[gatrhumpy]

If the track lifts up and is not nailed down, maybe try to replace the rail joiners. Also, as was mentioned above, power is not getting to that section of the track. A little solder will have this, but be careful because you could warp or melt the plastic ties.

[NYC-Big 4]

Is it DCC or DC?  If DC there may be a block that is not turned on.

[Hamltnblue]

 Do you have a pic of the layout?

[Eric97123]

at the switch track, push down a little on it and if the train goes, then it is the part of the track that does the switching (the points) not making contact to get current, if so, a little bit of needle nose pliers squeezing should work, have had that happen a few times on my track.

[Jacktal]

It looks like loose joiners cause a dead portion of the track.One simple cure is first identify wich track and then with small pliers,slightly squeeze the faulty joiners to reestablish conductivity,one at each end of the dead track section.This failing,you may have to apply a little solder to the outside of the rail.Also make sure the train isn't stopped by oxydized or dirty track wich is also often the problem.

[Steve & Noah]

My son just won a really cool train layout that was a display at model train show. We watched the two engines buzz around the track many times while at the show. We transported the layout home (it is built on a 4 x 8 plywood & 2x 4 base that is pretty sturdy) and plugged it in. The layout consists of two connected ovals, one inside the other connected with electronic switch tracks. The engine goes all the way around the outer track but when we trip the switch and have the train go on the inner track it stops right at a switch every time. It doesn't get stuck, it appears the engine is no longer getting power. About two feet up the track the engine works again and continues along the rest of the inner loop. Any advice on what I can do to solve this problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,