I'll be the contrarian. On my last layout I made provisions to wire the frogs on all my Atlas turnouts, #6 and #4 code 83 Custom-Line versions. But I never got around to it. And EVERY loco I ever ran had absolutely ZERO problems stalling or even blinking the headlight when passing over them, even at a crawl. Steam, diesel, electric - it all got run and with no problems. You really only NEED powered frogs if you run old stuff that only picks up from 2 wheels on each side, everything I own has at least 8 wheel pickup if a diesel and modern steamers like BLI pick up from both sides of both the loco and tender for an absolutely huge pickup footprint. I also have direct power feeds on all legs of the turnout unless on leg was the break point between a power district, so there is no relying on point rail contact or other flimsy method to provide power at all points.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
live frogs are a must, i've delt with both and there is nothing more frustrating than a loco stalling over turnouts. so try and do some research on the wiring and definitly implement them into your track work. by the way the forums are a great way to learn, i built my entire layout by asking questions from this website. good luck.
ALL frogs have to be insulated in some fashion otherwise you will have an electrical short where the two rails come together to form the frog. A better term to use is 'isolated'. The frog should be isolated from the stock rails and from the point rails. An Atlas customline turnout is an example of a turnout that has an insulated frog designed into the construction of the turnout. The cast metal frog is isolated from both stock rails and both point rails. if you look closely at the frog you'll see a thin piece of plastic that separates the cost frog from the approaching rails. This insulates, or isolates, the frog from the adjoining rails. Older Shinohara turnouts have solid frogs. If you do not cut a gap or install plastic rail joiners after the frog you'll have a short. The frof should be 'isolated' from the other rail to prevent the short.
Grampy1 You can also tell be looking at the turnouts: insulated frogs are plastic (usually black) and powered frogs are metal
Not always. Atlas Customline frogs are insulated and are black metal.
Joe
Use live frogs if you can, there is nothing as frustrating as locomotives that stalls on the turnouts.
I have an all live-frog layout under construction myself, and even though it involves a bit more work with the wiring, I think it will be worth it when my 2-axle locos can go through the layout with no problems..
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The package will tell you if the frogs are powered or insulated. You can also tell be looking at the turnouts: insulated frogs are plastic (usually black) and powered frogs are metal.
A wye has two connotations. There is a "Y" turnout rather than a right or left, and there is a "wye" which is a track arrangement that allows for the turning a train, or an engine. In a "wye" track arrangement three turnouts are arranaged at each of the three points of a triangle to enable the train or engine to turn. A wye serves the same purpose as a reverse loop or turntable, in the simplest comparison.
A Wye(sometimes know as an 'equalateral' turnout) divirges equally to the left and right.
You do not NEED insulated frogs(even with DCC). The advantage is that there is no way a short can happen on the frog area if it is insulated. The disadvantage is that short wheelbase engines may lose power as they go through the turnout. The good news is that most modern day models have 'all wheel' pickup and can cruise through that 'dead' area. All of the Atlas turnouts have insulated frogs. The Walthers/Shinohara turnous of more recent production have insulated frogs - the packaging may mention 'DCC Friendly'....
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
The more I read the more questions I have as a novice. First, what is the difference between a wye and a turnout? Second, for a DC operation do you need insulated frogs, and if so how do you know they are insulated? Will the package say so. Thanks