Just bought a new N scale Conrail GP-38 from Atlas. I placed it on my layout, and I have to help it along in order to get it to start, and then I have to have the DC tech 2 throttle at about 60% in order to get it to run where it won't stop. When starting, the light lights up and it sort of "grunts" along.
Do engines need a break-in period?
I'm going to take it back to the LHS to have them run it on their test track to see if it starts up the same way.
Does it have a DCC decoder in it? Are the wheels clean? This sounds like dirty wheels or dirty track, or both.
If it has a DCC decoder, having to turn a throttle up to a rather high level is normal when you try to run one on DC power.
At the risk of annoying those who believe the manufacturers owe us a good-running model every single time, you might consider fixing it yourself.
Based on the description given, this is not a break-in item. All a break-in run does - typically 30 minutes in each direction at a medium voltage - is better seat bearings and races, and wear some very minor rough edges on gears away. Expecting a break-in run to do more is expecting excessive wear to get rid of flash on gears, improper gear mesh, pieces not fitted correctly, etc. On older models with all metal gears (older Athearn), a mild abrasive was sometimes used on the gears during break-in to smooth the gear teeth edges.
To fix engines that won't run smoothly yourself, you have to play detective. Very useful tools - in addtion to those needed to take the model apart - are magnifying glass or similar, a piece of flat glass, an ammeter, and a patient attitude. The first check is with the ammeter. A high current means a high load on the motor. The load can come from binding in the mechanism; parts rubbing on shafts, gears, or wheels; flash on the gears; solidified grease (surprisingly common) on the gears; improper gear mesh; or a failing motor (pretty rare).
A test of the mechanism is to remove the motor and worms (spiral wound gears). Without the motor and worms, the mechanism should roll freely on the glass surface. Any binds or excess friction preventing it from rolling on the glass need to be fixed before reassembly.
Or, since you apparently bought the engine new from a reputable hobby shop, take it back and let them do the same repair procedures or replace the engine.
To me, learning to tune engines to run smoothly is an enjoyable part of the hobby, and a rewarding way to acquire new skills.
Fred W
I have a DC track.
I will clean the wheels with isopropyl alcohol when I get home to see if that helps. The engine IS brand new, and the guy at the LHS siad it needs a break-in period, and the wheels might need to be cleaned since it was sitting on the self some some time period.
I may have tack this up to "Ya learn something new every day" type of deal.
I'll look at the innards of the engine to see if I see anything.
I know for a fact it's not dirty track as I just thoroughly cleaned it prior to putting the engine on the tracks.
You mentioned that the loco had been sitting on the shelf for some time. The factory grease on the gears may have hardened and will need to be removed and the gears re-lubed.
Joe
I checked the armature motor, and the gears, and everything seems in order.
The engine still starts a bit rough, and you almost have to spur it on or touch it in order to get it to go, so I wonder what is going on in that respect.
If it won't go unless you touch it, there is an electrical contact problem - perhaps, but not necessarily inside the engine. If it runs a few feet or inches and stops again until touched, it's definitely a contact problem. Loose wires to the power pack and track, dirty track, dirty wheels are all possibilities outside the engine. Inside, the contact strips may not be touching correctly, wheel wipers may be out of adjustment, broken wire connections, etc, are all possibilities. Dirty track and wheels are a particular problem in N - just because you cleaned it doesn't mean the track and wheels are clean enough. If the locomotive lights are on steady (no flickering), then it is not an outside electrical contact problem.
If it will go on its own, but takes a high voltage to get started, but then runs without stopping, you have a bind or tightness in the mechanism. It could be anything from the shell or weigh rubbing on the flywheel to improper gear mesh to longitudinal slop in the worm shaft. Take the shell off and closely observe while running at the lowest possible speed. And/or do the experiment of rolling the chassis on a smooth flat surface with the motor and worms removed.
Remove the motor and run it in your hand with a 9 volt battery wired to it. If the motor vibrates to the point of stinging your hand, you have a motor problem. It should be reasonably smooth and cool in your hand.
Be aware you can have more than one problem in a given locomotive.
just some suggestions
Thanks Fred. I might try to do that tonight or tomorrow.
I know it's not the loco's wheels. I thoroughly cleaned them before placing it on the track. The loco's light comes on steady at a certain voltage (will have to measure it) but it still grunts a little and sometimes even requires touching it. Once it runs though, it's great.
LOL.
Apparently the reason why the performance of the engine that I bought was so poor was because I bought a DCC-equipped GP-38-2 from Atlas. It ran great once it was at speed, but the slow speed performance was abysmal.
I went and exchanged it for a DC version, and it worked great!
<----Is stupid for not checking the label :)