Like Silver Pilot said what decoder are you using? If it's the drop in Tsunami no resistor is needed since it's set up to be a drop in and drive the 1.5v bulbs. If not you'll need a dropping resistor on each bulb.
Springfield PA
When your bulbs went POOF the decoder's function outputs may have also gone POOF if you didn't have a resistor in line with each bulb. You put too much amperage through the bulbs and also through the decoder.
I always go with a higher resistance value than what Ohms law calculations call for or what the decoder manufacturer recommends, for the simple reason that the initial inrush current when a cold bulb filament is turned on can exceed the recommended value.
Let's ask again but a little louder. WHAT DECODER ARE YOU USING?
You need to use resistors for 1.5 volt bulbs. What bulbs are you getting to replace the blown ones? Stock Athearn ones? Or you could use a decoder that has resistors already in place - the TCS A6X has a 1.5 volt output for all functions, the Digitrax DH165A0 only has limiters on the front and rear lights, not the extra functions for the ditch lights. For 30ma 1.5 volt bulbs you'll want a 470 ohm resistor in series with each lamp for any function output that is not already limited.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
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Aaron safiolesok, so for my geesis SD60I i got the lights to alternatley flash. i ahve the lightbulbs split up, one lead on each lightbulb is going to the board, and the others are going to the green and purple wires. and I tested them YAY they worked!@, i pressed F0 and POOF theyre dead. i am using 1.5V 1.2mm bulbs. does i need resistors? [acronym expression removed] i have to buy some bulbs tommorrow, so ill try again then. all i want to know is how to make that NOT explode.
Some additional information would be very helpful. What decoder are you using would be the palce to start ?
Engineer Jeff NS Nut Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/