Hi,
Looking for some basic advice please.
I had to dis-assemble and then re-assemble (that's another story!) my 11' x 6' DCC layout. The 14 gauge bus wires were cut at convenient places. I am now ready to reconnect the wiring - electricity etc is not my forte !!
I went to The Source (Radio Shack) yesterday and they sold me 22-18 snap connectors, which I believe are rated 600v 19A. Rather than take another trip back in to change the connectors will using the 20-18's for the 14 gauge bus wire (butt joint) cause me problems? I don't want to solder because I like the idea of a future disconnect if needed.
I have a Digitrax Zephyr and run a max of 3 locos at any one time.
Many thanks for any help.
I would advise you to get the correct size. If these are displacement connectors, I doubt they will work properly on the 14 gauge wire.
They'll probably crimp on, but since they are for smaller wire, they will cut into the #14. If you want to use suitcase type connectors you'll need to get the correct ones.
Disconnecting a soldered connection is IMO faster than undoing a suitcase connector - just get the wire cutters and go to town!
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Thanks for the replies.
I guess my main enquiry was if the smaller connectors would affect the DCC signal. Would the 20-18's create any form of electrical resistance in the 14 gauge bus wires? I used 14 gauge as bus wires and then used IDC suitcase connectors to connect the bus to my 20 gauge feeders soldered to the tracks. I wired every piece of track and turnout so after all that work I don't want to cause a problem due to my own ignorance.
The connectors are the male/female push together type (not suitcase). I can take a trip back to the store but was hoping to do the final connections today. Getting withdrawal syptoms - I have to run a train this evening
The only issue is they will simply not fit, and if you do force them on they will cut or otherwise damage the 14 gauge bus wires. The space allowed for crimping is designed to allow #20-#18 wire. Smaller than #20, it won't crimp tight enough. Larger than #18, it will likely cut into the wire.
OK that makes sense, thanks.
It's another trip to the store.
Thanks for the response/s.
..... Bob
Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)
I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)
Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.
Oops, just got back from The Source, changed out the connectors suitable for 14 gauge.
Looks like another trip tomorrow for the crimping tool. Thanks for the advice Bob.
Why not just get a couple of terminal strips and the 14Ga ring or forked crimp on connectors and that way if you have to disassemble again its just a screw turn instead of a cut?
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
When I cut the wires the cuts were made between frames under my benchwork. I then cut the benchwork into three main pieces (after much deliberation). Problem is there isn't enough of the single strand wire each cut end (there's about ten of them) to reach a terminal strip without moving (jarring) many of the feeders which are attached using suitcase connectors. If I move the bus wires I'll probably loosen the soldered feeders from the N scale tracks.
The best solution seems to use the male/female connectors I bought.
I had it all up and running before having to move. Actually the best solution was to totally rebuild but I had only just finished laying all the track so hadn't got the heart to start again. Other solution was not to move.
Instead of suitcase connectors, I use terminal blocks and crimp-on connectors. You can get crimp on connectors in a bulk pack of 100 from All Electronics for less than you're going to be paying for 10 suitcase connectors from Radio Shack.
Why not attach the bus wires to a terminal strip at whatever point they reach (even if it's not right at the edge of the benchwork section) and then wire jumpers between terminal strips across the gap? Or am I not understanding what you said? Even if each terminal strip ends up having th ebe located a foot in from where the benchwork gap is, it won't matter - a little over 2 feet of some #14 as a jumper will work fine.
Good idea, that would work for some of the wires Randy but there are a few where the suitcase connectors (and therefore some drop down feeders) are within a few inches of the cut ends of the 14 gauge wire (as I mentioned I cut between frames). Cropping the 14 gauge to get back to a frame to use terminals and then using jumpers across frames would mean losing some of the feeders.
Difficult to describe but your suggestion helps. I guess I should have cut the wires near the frames, instead I cut the wires in line with the cuts through the benchwork. Hindsight is a wonderful thing.
So get some suicase connectors for joining #14 to #14 and add in a short jumper piece to reach a logical position for the terminal strip. If you really think you'll have to take the layout apart, having jumpers between terminal striups with spade connectors will make a nice neat break point that will be easy to reconnect when the layout gets put back together.
Yep, that will work Randy and will allow for neater and more solid connections.
Off to Princess Auto today. Maybe I'll be running trains again by the weekend.
Thanks to all for the ideas and input