You will never find acid core solder at Radio Shack or other electronics stores. If you go to Lowe's or HD, then you "will" find the plumbing flux in the plumbing section. They do have electronics grade flux also, but that is in the electrical section.
Having just put down my Weller hand cannon (325 watt gun about as old as Michelle Obama) here's my take on soldering flux.
First, there is NO place in model railroading, whether hard-wiring a decoder or building hand-assembled specialwork, for acid flux - and I don't give a fistful of ratfeathers for any contrary opinion. I have solder joints that still have traces of rosin core solder on them on a module I built in 1980, that have held up flawlessly for all the intervening years. If that flux had been acidic, the turnouts and drop connections would have become unserviceable long since.
Second, while there is some flux in the core of rosin core solder, I have occasionally found it to be too little, too late when soldering rail into specialwork. OTOH, having a surplus of rosin flux has never caused unnecessary problems.
I may be a belt-and-suspenders type, but I always add a dab from my little can of Burnley's non-acid soldering paste. Since I use a toothpick, not a shovel, that little snuff-can size container has lasted me even longer than the solder joints on that module.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with rosin fluxed solder joints)
I agree, having some extra flux to brush on has always made my soldering jobs go much easier. Maybe for the skilled or experienced solderer the rosin core type is suffient, but many of us train hobbiests don't solder all that often, including myself.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
This is the flux I use, on those occasions when I use any at all: http://www.ccis.com/home/hn/index_files/Page2.htm
It's water soluable and any excess easily washes off with plain water. I use a microbrush as an applicator - a toothpick would also work fine - that's all you need! This stuff works fine - even soldering nickle silver rail to PC board ties. BTW, the cleanup Tim Warris uses after acid flux is more than soap and water - there's baking soda involved to neutralize any leftover acid. While this is fine for somethign that is an easily moved relatively small part, you can't very well wash off any track built in place on the layout. Or the wiring on the layout. Acid flux tends to work better, however your time and effort is better spent practicing soldering technique so you can get by with a rosin flux or even no flux. ANY excess flux, even rosin or the water based stuff I linked, should be cleaned off after the work is complete.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
HamltnblueI've never had a problem as long as the surface is relatively clean.
I've never had a problem as long as the surface is relatively clean.
No, and a person with plenty of soldering experience may not have any trouble doing this. The fact is though, adding flux makes it easier to make a quick electrically/mechanically sound solder joint.
Micro-Mark is a good source of soldering accessories like flux. Regardless of what Tim Warris is doing, acid flux is NOT recommended for ANY electrical soldering. Unless the joints are washed in soapy water as Tim does corrosion is a given. Even if they are washed, it is still possible that some acid will be trapped in the joint and will cause corrosion eventually. Rosin flux will do the job admirably if your materials are clean and you are using proper soldering techniques. There is no need for acid flux anywhere on the layout.
Edit: Yes, as betamax said... ;o)
HamltnblueAs said before, if you go with a flux core solder then you don't have to worry about it. No separate flux is needed.
As said before, if you go with a flux core solder then you don't have to worry about it. No separate flux is needed.
Even if you are using rosin core solder, extra flux just makes the job go that much easier. Often there is not enough flux in the solder, or is has dried out over time.
A little liquid or paste flux goes a long way when it comes to making a good joint, and it makes it even easier to get good results.
Springfield PA
Even if you use a cored solder you should use separate flux as the cored don't really have enough flux to get the job done.
I get my paste flux only from Radio Shack. Any flux with zinc chloride or ammonium chloride is an acid base for use in plumbing and such and is not recommended for electrical work.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
I bought my flux at Radio Shack and it's labeled "Rosin Soldering Flux." My guess is any rosin flux would be labeled similarly.
If you don't have a Radio Shack or a "real" electronics store near you, I'm sure some or all of the online electronics vendors mentioned on these forums will have it. I just checked jameco.com quickly and they do.
In the meantime, Tim Warris of fasttracks fame has some post-acid-flux-soldering cleaning tips on his website, as he uses it when building his turnouts. In his case, he dunks the completed turnout in soapy water and scrubs the joints, as I recall. You need either a very big tub or a very small layout to do the same, but you probably can adapt the method for your needs.
Rick Krall
Don't use ammonium or zinc chloride flux. Toss it or use it only for soldering copper water pipe or maybe brass locos. This flux does a good job but not for electrical. If you layout is going to be around twenty years, I would not use this flux.
Get some Rosin flux only. The club I belong to some years ago had the track feeders soldered using that same flux. It did a good job, the person who did the soldering said he cleaned up afterward. Years later it has come back to haunt us with defective and loose feeders.
Use a Scratch brush from Micro Mark to shine up the track solder point, a little flux, good heat and Rosin Core solder will do a very good job. Practice on scrap track until you get it right if you have not done much soldering.It is a real bear to crawl under the layout and get your head up into a tunnel to find and solder a track feeder or joint. Been there, done that, have the T shirt.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
You want ammonium chloride or ROSIN for electronic work. Zinc chloride is for working with galvanized iron.
how do you know if the flux is Acid or not, the container of paste flux i have does not say. Says to clean with water. I am thinking it is Acid flux because it contains Zinc Cloride. Very confusing for a newbe
i have sodered my rails and feeder wires, do i have to do everything over if it is acid?
Help please