If you use bicolor LEDs that are red and green, you can do what you mentioned. One will be red and the other green, when you flip the toggle to change the position of the Tortoise the colors ont he LED will flip. @-wire bi-color LEDs don;t have a polarity marking, usually, so you'll have to experiment to get them opposite each other. If you hook them up wrong all that will happen is they will both be red or both be green rather than be opposite. Clip everythign together using clip leads before soldering and test, if it's right then solder the LEDs together, of not, flip one around and try again.
The comes matching it all up - toggle switch position, LEDs indications, and Tortoise position. If the switch and LEDs agree but the Tortoise moves the turnout the wrong way, reverse the wires going to the Tortoise. If the toggle switch and the Tortoise agree but the LEDs are wrong, reverse the connections ot the LEDs. If the LEDs and Tortoise agree but the toggle is opposite, reverse the wires from the toggle or just remove the toggle and reinstall it the other way.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
HOJEBRandy, I want to install two LEDs on the panel to show red for closed switch and green for open switch one LED on each of the separate legs of the turnout. Would the wiring for the DPDT relay work with two LED wired in series ( but reversed for correct color)? or should a different wiring be used for two LEDs? Thanks Joel
Joel, the two LED's should be in parallel with each other, but in opposite directions. In other words, the anode of each connects to the cathode of the other. Then that "parallel but one is reversed" LED assembly is then put in series with the tortoise.
Te reason for that is because LED's will not let current flow in reverse. But by having one facing each way electrically, the current in one direction will flow through (and illuminate) one LED, and when reversed, will flow through and illuminate the other.
A red/green bi-polar LED is essentially a green LED and a red LED wired in that fashion within a single package.
HTH,
Steve
Thanks so much Rick! You are sooo helpfull! When I find some free time to work on it, i'll leave a massage to let you guys know how it turned out. Thanks again.
Great explanation,Randy--concise and very clear!
Having just done this, and not being a whiz at wiring either, I'd like to add:
A picture of one of my cross-wired DPDT switches, here. It's a little fuzzy, sorry, but then, so am I:
I found cross-wiring a DPDT switch to be easier said than done, so here's the technique I evolved through trial and error:
1. Position switch in vice with grooved-stem-side up. This will be the top of the switch when installed 2. Strip a scant 10 mm from end of 22 AWG solid wire. Wire length doesn’t matter; you’ll trim it a few steps ahead 3. Place stripped end in one of the top terminals, inserting from the outside. Insert just until the end clears the terminal hole 4. Bend the wire around the inside of the top terminal down to the inside of the bottom terminal that's diagonal to the top one 5. Cut the wire approximately 3 mm beyond the lower terminal 6. Remove the wire; tease the insulation up, towards the inserted end. The insulation now should be in the middle of the wire, which is now stripped at both ends. 7. With needle nose pliers, bend the bottom extension into an ‘L” covering the bottom of the diagonal terminal, leaving the hole uncovered 8. Solder the top connection. 9. Solder the bottom (”L”) connection. Before soldering, use Xuron cutters to trip the overhang if necessary and needle nose pliers to assure the wire makes good contact. When soldering, be careful to leave the hole open, inserting a toothpick if necessary. You can also use a toothpick to apply pressure to keep the “L” below the hole. 10. Confirm all joints are good, that both ends of the jumper wire make good contact, and there’s no opportunity for a short. 11. Repeat with the other wire, keeping both wires’ insulation away from the center terminals. You now have the top (2) terminals free to attach the feeder wires. If the jumper joints are suspect, you’ll correct that by default when you solder the feeder wires
I opted not to add lights to my panel, as I can see the position of the turnout based on the throw of the DPDT, making the LEDs unnecessary (for me). You might get an idea of this from my panel, although it's clearer in real life than it is in this photo:
Additionally, if the OP solders the feeds to the Tortoise before installation, as I did, he won't be able to reverse the wires at the Tortoise. However, if he uses terminal blocks, as I did, he can simply do that at the block.
Rick Krall
rrinker,
Doesn't one need a resistor in series with the LED?
Thanks alot!!! That cleared alot confution for me! Can't wait to get started Thanks again!!!
If by "two way toggle" you mean a DPDT switch (does it have 6 connections?), do this:
First, connect the diagonal opposite terminals of the switch, like an X. Top left to bottom right, top right to bottom left (total 2 wires).
Now, connect a 12 volt DC power supply to the switch. Connect one wire of the power supply to the bottom left terminal of the switch. Connect the other power supply wire to the bottom right terminal.
Next, connect a wire from the left center terminal to one lead of your LED.
Now connect a wire from the other lead of the LED to pin 1 of the Tortoise.
FInally, connect a wire from the right center terminal of the switch to pin 8 of the Tortoise.
If the position of the toggle and the Tortoise match but the LED is the wrong color, disconnect the LED and turn it around.
If the position of the toggle and the LED match up but the Tortoise is backwards, swap the wires on pins 1 and 8 of the Tortoise.
I am not a whiz with wiring! I am trying to wire my tortoise controled switches to a dual color LED and then to a two way toggle switch. Is there any one who could gide me through this?? I also plan to wire street lighting ect..