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Energized frog on atlas turn-out

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  • Member since
    February 2001
  • From: Poconos, PA
  • 3,948 posts
Posted by TomDiehl on Saturday, January 23, 2010 12:15 PM

jrbernier

  Do not waste your time trying solder to that cast frog.  Tap it for a machine screw(I cannot remember if a 2-56 or a 3-48 is perfect) - now you can attach a wire to it.

Jim

The screw size they're designed to work with is a 0-80. As mentioned above there is a buss bar and screw that comes with the Atlas Snap Relay that will make the connection of the power easier than trying to solder directly to the frog.

If you want to make your own buss bar, get a strip of brass .02" thick by 1/8 inch wide.drill and tap two holes in it for 0-80 screws, one spaced about 1/16 inch from the edge and the other 7/8 inch from the first. Cut the piece off the strip about 1/16 inch past the second hole. Do the drilling and tapping BEFORE you cut the piece off the strip. Trying to drill and tap a 1 inch piece of 1/8 inch brass can be a real SOB to hold on to. There's a slot in the ties directly below the hole to allow the buss bar to slide in without making a hump in the switch. This takes the point where you solder the wire to the buss bar outside the switch. I attach the buss bar to the hole beside the frog with a 0-80 x 1/8 inch brass screw. Pan head is best.

Smile, it makes people wonder what you're up to. Chief of Sanitation; Clowntown
  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Ulster Co. NY
  • 1,464 posts
Posted by larak on Friday, January 22, 2010 9:07 PM

forspar
Could I tap the hole, put the screw in from the bottom, put the wire under the head and then cut it off on the top?

 

Absolutely. I used 2-56 brass screws. Get the right length and you won't even need to cut them.

The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open.  www.stremy.net

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: Colorful Colorado
  • 8,639 posts
Posted by Texas Zepher on Friday, January 22, 2010 8:21 PM

jrbernier
Do not waste your time trying solder to that cast frog.  Tap it for a machine screw(I cannot remember if a 2-56 or a 3-48 is perfect) - now you can attach a wire to it.

I used 1-72 screws.  I tried the Altas bus bar and in addition to being pricey, I found the screws they included were too short. Only the very end (last round) of the screw would engage and therefore easily strip.  I ended up filing the underside to get them to grab enough to get a good bite. Switched to tapping at 1/72nd and things were great.  My screws were brass and I did have to paint the top so they didn't look so bad.


  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Southeast Texas
  • 5,449 posts
Posted by mobilman44 on Friday, January 22, 2010 6:38 PM

Yes, that's the way to go.   Also, on the code 100 number 8s I bought, they have a "ring" set outside the rails that connects to the frog.  This allows one to solder to that ring or whatever other way you would want to attach it.

Mobilman44

ENJOY  !

 

Mobilman44

 

Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central 

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • 1,932 posts
Posted by Stevert on Friday, January 22, 2010 4:02 PM

forspar

 How do you attach a wire to the frog? I tried to solder it but it got too hot and melted the plastic. Could I tap the hole, put the screw in from the bottom, put the wire under the head and then cut it off on the top?

 

Easy way:

Go to the Atlas site and under Repair Parts, order some #9200002 Buss bars and some #9200001 screws.  These are the parts that come with the Atlas Snap Relay to power the frogs, so they're already made to work together.

The buss bar will slide into the slot on the bottom of the appropriate tie on the Atlas turnout, and it's already tapped so you can secure it from the top with one of those screws (They're blackened to match the frog).

Then you can either solder the wire to the other end of the buss bar, which gives you a little more room/isolation to help prevent melting anything, or you can simply fasten it with another one of the screws.

HTH,
Steve

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Friday, January 22, 2010 3:46 PM

 If it's an Atlas turnout - forget soldering to it. I wouldn;t even try tapping the hole - instead get a small brass screw that fits through the hole, and a nut. Either solder the wire to the brass screw or solder the wire to s small ring terminal and then runt he screw through the ring terminal and hole in the frog and attach the nut.

                          --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    January 2001
  • From: SE Minnesota
  • 6,847 posts
Posted by jrbernier on Friday, January 22, 2010 1:56 PM

  Do not waste your time trying solder to that cast frog.  Tap it for a machine screw(I cannot remember if a 2-56 or a 3-48 is perfect) - now you can attach a wire to it.

Jim

Modeling BNSF  and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin

  • Member since
    December 2009
  • 10 posts
Energized frog on atlas turn-out
Posted by forspar on Friday, January 22, 2010 12:35 PM

 How do you attach a wire to the frog? I tried to solder it but it got too hot and melted the plastic. Could I tap the hole, put the screw in from the bottom, put the wire under the head and then cut it off on the top?

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