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8 pin connector?

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  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: PtTownsendWA
  • 1,445 posts
8 pin connector?
Posted by johncolley on Monday, January 11, 2010 10:57 AM

I have an AB pair of LL-P1K F3's and the 8 pin spots for the decoder connection have no spots for pins 2 and three. How does track power get to the decoder and do I just cut those two pins off the male  plug?  Another question the PC board shows three places to cut the trace for conversion to DCC.the traces are embedded in the board..can I just drill through them, or how should I cut them? John

jc5729
  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Christiana, TN
  • 2,134 posts
Posted by CSX Robert on Monday, January 11, 2010 12:05 PM
Does you F3 look like the one on this page:TCS MC2 Decoder Installation for HO-Scale Life-Like Proto 1000 F3A?

If so, I think you will have to cut the whole plug off and hardwire it because the spacing of the pads looks different than the NMRA plug. The decoder gets track power from pins 4 and 8. Pin 3 is usually left unconnected(it can be used for an auxillary function) and pin 2 is for the rear headlight, which the F3 does not have. Here is the NMRA specs for the 8 pin plug.
  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Monday, January 11, 2010 6:45 PM

 It's not meant to plug an NMRA 8 pin plug into, it's meant to solder the wires from the decoder (after cutting the circuit traces makred with the x and 'cut for dcc'.

 It's easier to just do what they did in the TCS instructions and remove the silly circuit board totally. There's plenty of room for a T1, you don't need to pay extra for the smaller M2.

                                   --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: PtTownsendWA
  • 1,445 posts
Posted by johncolley on Tuesday, January 12, 2010 10:01 AM

CSX, it is the identical engine. I model GN circa '47-'50. Thanks for the info! I now feel confident to proceed. John

jc5729
  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: PtTownsendWA
  • 1,445 posts
Posted by johncolley on Wednesday, January 13, 2010 10:11 AM

I hear you, Randy,perhaps I should have noted that I am going with the Tsunami and sound. I appreciate the clue about soldering pads as that hadn't occurred to me. Thanks, John

jc5729
  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: WSOR Northern Div.
  • 1,559 posts
Posted by WSOR 3801 on Wednesday, January 13, 2010 6:28 PM

 Here is how I installed a T1 in a P1K F3A.

I cut the traces by scraping with my track nipper.  Just have to make sure you get all the way through the copper at that point.  The three extra function wires (rear headlight, F1 and F2) on the harness were twisted together, then wrapped around to get them out of the way, but still available if desired later.

I used a small piece of double-sided tape to hold the decoder in place.  

The headlight isn't the brightest, but it works.  

Mike WSOR engineer | HO scale since 1988 | Visit our club www.WCGandyDancers.com

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