The previous owner programed the engine to its 4 digit cab number, it will power up on DCC as I tried it at the train show, but the engine does nothing on DC and I need it back in duel mode for awhile. I tried the reset thing with a magnet as the wand is missing, no luck getting the engine to reset to factory default, which I had hoped it would do and save me a trip across town to a friends layout to change the CV value. Any other way to get her back on duel mode without access to DCC? Engine does absolutly nothing when on a powered DC track. Mike
LHS mechanic and geniune train and antique garden tractor nut case!
The magnetic wand is touchy at best - it helps to remove the tender shell so you can see the reed switch and know you have the magnet close enough to it. You then have to cycle the power. You should have the throttle up when you use the magnet, then shut it off. I never could get the magic wand to work with an Atlas Trainmaster even AFTER removing the shell and knowing exactly where the switch was. It worked fine with the shell off, but never assembled. Maybe the magnet isn't strong enough or something. Pop the tender shell, it should work for you then. The reed switch is obvious, it's a long glass cylinder with one wire on each end.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Is the wand missing, or was there never one to begin with? According to the Broadway website some engines came with a jumper that could be removed, the engine powered up, and the jumper replaced. Supposedly the information that came with the engine tells you what you have. If you happen to have the jumper variety, see page 44 on instruction http://www.broadway-limited.com/support/manuals/Generic%20Steam%20Q1a%20Operators%20Manual.pdf.
Engine was from a late modelers collection and hadnt been run much beyond reprograming to the engine cab number. When I removed the tender shell, one wire was broke off the reed switch and the other broke right after that. I resoldered both and she reset to factory default just fine. Runs on DC like it should now. I will correct the CV values when I get my new layout up and running with DCC. The Wand was missing but I just used another I had on hand. I do like this model much more over my Proto 2K NKP Berk and Bachmann NKP Berk/PRR K4. Much sturdier feeling being all diecast and feels less fragile.