I know this is going to be a very long process for me but does anyone have any online or print resources/books on the basics of remotoring old locomotives and adding DCC functionality?
I've got some old brass locomotives and Bowser/Penn Lines I'd like to update and frankly, this is one task I've been scared of tackling for awhile now. Unfortunately, I'm stuck doing this since they include PRR engines not mass-produced in DCC versions so the answer of go and buy a DCC version doesn't quite apply here.
Thanks for any pointers anyone may have.
I recommend getting a NWSL 8 ½ by 11 inch paper catalog. I went this route back in the earlier 1990s and bought their catalog. Did the same in 2002. The catalog is 2002, Stock #0-1 if the new owner still has it in stock. Most of the pages use to be on the NWSL site but are gone now.
Lots of info on gears, flywheels, gear boxes, templates of different motor they sold. Actual sizes of what they sell. Loads of gear planning info.
Worms, worm gears, reverse worms, reverse worm gears, spur gears. Delrin gears, brass gears, sleeves, flywheels, bushings, etc. All high quality.
Rich
Great advice on re-motoring, re-gearing plastic and a lot of brass hint conversion data. Right now the NWSL PDF pages are being re-done. Also, get the basic puller, quarterer.
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Flynn I know this is going to be a very long process for me but does anyone have any online or print resources/books on the basics of remotoring old locomotives and adding DCC functionality? Thanks for any pointers anyone may have.
Have you considered not remotoring when doing the DCC conversions? To add a DCC decoder, only 2 requirements have to be met. 1) The motor brushes must be electrically isolated from the locomotive, and separate wires going to both brushes, and 2) the current draw of the motor with drivers slipping must be less than the decoder's rating.
If the motor bearings and the gearing are in good shape, Darth Santa Fe's replacement of the magnet stack ($5 or less) of an open frame motor will reduce current draw, and increase torque. In other words, if you already have a good drive train, replacing the magnets on an old open frame motor with rare earth magnets will make it even better. Then, just isolating the motor brushes give you the DCC compatibility you seek.
OTOH, if the locomotive doesn't run as well as you would like due to motor bearing or gearbox issues, you are into remotor/regear. The NWSL links Rich gave you are certainly a great starting point - NWSL is probably the largest supplier of remotor/regear stuff. The Yahoo repower and regear group is also very helpful (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/repowerandregear/). LocoDoc (http://www.locodoc.com/) sells highly recommended kits to remotor/regear many brass locomotives.
hope this helps
Fred W
Thanks for the suggestions about NWSL and the yahoo group. I was looking at their website and was a bit overwhelmed but maybe sitting down with a paper catalog will help.
Yeah, remotoring is necessary at this point since some of these engines are my uncle's from the 70's. A couple just don't work at all but I'm not inclined to give up on a PRR H-9 or others I can't buy now days. Remotoring is going to have to occur at some point.
Here is another site with helpful information:
http://markschutzer.com/Brass_Clinics/Clinics_page1.htm
Part numbers for jumper pins, motor data and decoder recommendations as well as photos. Nice instructional clinics.
Carl in Florida - - - - - - - - - - We need an HO Amtrak SDP40F and GE U36B oh wait- We GOT THEM!
Bowser has some replacement motors for the PennLine locos. They are a simple remove & replace and are isolated from the frame, also use less amps. Some locos are just hard to part with.
Dave