Well the decision has been made.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170448909294&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT
And I already have the sound and light effects equiped Kato with lighted ten car set. Very nice but very difficult to hear at a train show. Its more than loud enough in my garage, in fact I adjusted it to 80% volume as the whistle would crackle.
John
Well I took the trucks off and cleaned then treated the sliding/riding axle contacts with metal polish. I cleaned again and used some contact cleaner and I also bent the ends back down a bit. The result is that I ran the loco for over an hour without it skipping a beat, but some of the tender wheels don't always roll. The loco still pulls seven cars up my 2% grades without any wheelslip so I will continue to adjust to see if I can get the wheel contacts adjusted properly before attempting any sound installation.
I would hope there may be some answers to my earlier questions,
Any thoughts on how to get it done would be appreciated. Considering I get to the bottom of the start and stop issues entirely.
I've done a sound install in the Kato GS-4, and there is enough space in there for a speaker baffle, along with sufficient weight to keep the tender on the rails. You've just got to remember to drill out the holes connecting the top of the tender circuit board to the bottom, to prevent shorts.
Looking forward to hearing how it goes - hope this helps.
The Location: Forests of the Pacific Northwest, OregonThe Year: 1948The Scale: On30The Blog: http://bvlcorr.tumblr.com
Anyone else have an opinion on this install?
Thank you. I also found the 10 car set new in the box for $199.
Maybe some Feebay action is in order.
For bid;
Concor GS4 Daylighter with 9 Concor Daylight cars. I guess the uninformed may take me up on it, eye.
davidmbedard spidge I see there have been many attempts at a sound install in the Concor. I guess I best take photos and post the results. Wish me luck. Funny I went to a hobby shop and asked about this or any install of sound in the Concor and they almost laughed me out of the shop. They weren't laughing at the Concor attempt rather sound in N scale. Another shop apoligized for having to deal with the Concor loco period. They simply did not recomend it at all. Actually, I have done 1 install into one of these units. The problem is; the loco just isnt up to snuff performance wise. After you do the install, expect the loco to stop, reset, go, stop, go, stop, go........It wont be a good experience. If you chose the Kato unit, you would have a fine running, reliable locomotive. David B
spidge I see there have been many attempts at a sound install in the Concor. I guess I best take photos and post the results. Wish me luck. Funny I went to a hobby shop and asked about this or any install of sound in the Concor and they almost laughed me out of the shop. They weren't laughing at the Concor attempt rather sound in N scale. Another shop apoligized for having to deal with the Concor loco period. They simply did not recomend it at all.
I see there have been many attempts at a sound install in the Concor. I guess I best take photos and post the results. Wish me luck.
Funny I went to a hobby shop and asked about this or any install of sound in the Concor and they almost laughed me out of the shop. They weren't laughing at the Concor attempt rather sound in N scale. Another shop apoligized for having to deal with the Concor loco period. They simply did not recomend it at all.
Actually, I have done 1 install into one of these units. The problem is; the loco just isnt up to snuff performance wise.
After you do the install, expect the loco to stop, reset, go, stop, go, stop, go........It wont be a good experience.
If you chose the Kato unit, you would have a fine running, reliable locomotive.
David B
Thanks for the specific info. This is what I was looking for. I do have this issue when the unit has not run for a while and its cold in the garage. I have seen the Kato for $129 so will consider the switch.
Thanks again.
Thank you Daved B and I plan to operate the loco on my DCC layout.
If I am hard wiring the decoder I would think the circuit board would be rendered useless anyway. Am I wrong on that?
Also I was thinking I would only have to maybe half the wieght and push it up in the tender for a down firing speaker and easy access for the decoder to the power pick ups. Does this seam feasable?
More questions;
Hey guys and gals,
I know some may have seen this question before but now that I have the cash I just want to make sure I am starting a doable project without it getting out of hand.
I would like to install a ESU Locksound Micro into the tender. Since the plug is different it looks like I will have to hard wire, correct? I have not seen a transition wiring aid.
What should I do with the front light? Keep the led and wire it up, go with some lighting effect that runs off track power, or...? I could care less about the rear light.
Does anyone know if the speaker is OK or should I replace with something that may be a bit more robust?
Will the speaker fit in the tender and will I need to remove some of the weight?
I know, I know. Toss it and go to the Kato, but my Concor out pulls the Kato. ooh, jab, jab. Not really an issue though as I plan to only pull about seven cars on 2% grades. I do like the fact that the Kato has the correct lighting effect and they do look nice. Shoot even the war baby looks awesome.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.