I´ll make a new HO layout. The actual turnouts are all ATLAS, purchased 20 years ago, and almost all failed, loosing conductivity. What mark do you recommend, today? Thanks
That 20 years might not be far off the industry average, depending on overall use and conditions during storage.
However, I will happily recommend what I use with success and reliability so far. I have several Peco Streamline Code 83 #6 turnouts of the Insulfrog kind. They work nicely, and have a snap at each throw end of the throwbar, or an over-center spring to keep the points tightly in place. Some don't care for the feature, some do. If you use mechanical servo-actuators, such as the Tortoise, it could place a strain on them.
I make my own #8's out of Code 100 using the Fast Tracks' system of construction. Very reliable and ultra smooth, but they take some doctoring up to make them look good on the layout. For example, solder blobs, no rail plates, no spikes....you get the idea. There are alternatives, such as the Central Valley variety. also well regarded. They have more detail. Some guys, like Joe Fugate, make hybrids combining the best features of the Fast Tracks and CV kits.
Walthers/Shinohara are good turnouts, but count are optimistic in their claims for the inner routes of curved turnouts. I have several of their #7.5 and #8 curved Code 83 turnouts. I was disappointed to find that the inner route was a full 3" shorter than the claimed radius. I successfully butchered their nether webbing between the ties to widen out the curves. Shouldn'ta oughta have tuh.
Finally, and no experience with them, but I have read all sorts of positive comments here and there, are the Micro Engineering turnouts. I have read of one or two displeased people, often just over the detailing, but they are generally widely used by happy customers.
I hope that helps.
-Crandell
H-D
Like Selector I have standardized on the PECO code 83. This is a North American prototype. The selection is good including curved turnouts.
One thing I really like is the ability to connect two turnouts in a crossover without cutting the diverging rails. This will put them on 2 inch centers.
I have also used the Walthers code 83 with success.
Chris
What is it exactly that failed about the Atlas turnouts?
If the power is getting to them, but not to the trains, then the problem is likely no more than dirty track or dirty wheels. If these are old brass turnouts, that's not surprising. Brass track is more gold in color, while today's nickel-silver track is silver in color. Brass tarnishes naturally, and the darker oxide which coats the rails is non-conductive. It can be removed easily with an abrasive track cleaner, but most people have moved away from brass, and I would not recommend using it in a new layout.
As I recall, even older Atlas turnouts would always pass through power on both paths, regardless of the setting of the turnout. Thus, they did not depend on the points making good contact with the stock rails, but rather on internal connectors built into the turnout. If this sort of thing is not working, I would look closely at the rail joiners. Even better, I would not depend on the joiners at all, but rather put feeders on both sides of the turnout to guarantee reliable, even power distribution.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.