hdtvnut Going back to your original idea of placing a Proto shell on the BLI: I had a BLI E8 and wanted to put a Proto E8 shell on it rather than repaint. I realize your situation is a little different. I ran into the door problem, but found it easy enough to remove the door hinges and just glue the doors in place. Then I looked at how to retain the shell on the BLI base. The BLI E8 shell is held on by four flat catches that are glued into shallow channels inside. Fortunately, the Proto shell was slightly wider internally, and I was able to remove the catches and glue them inside the Proto. It is retained properly, and there is no bulge. I also needed to change the chime soundfile from a Wabco E2 to a Nathan P3. Having a QSI programmer, this also was easy. Now looking for the right set of horns. Hal
Going back to your original idea of placing a Proto shell on the BLI:
I had a BLI E8 and wanted to put a Proto E8 shell on it rather than repaint. I realize your situation is a little different. I ran into the door problem, but found it easy enough to remove the door hinges and just glue the doors in place. Then I looked at how to retain the shell on the BLI base.
The BLI E8 shell is held on by four flat catches that are glued into shallow channels inside. Fortunately, the Proto shell was slightly wider internally, and I was able to remove the catches and glue them inside the Proto. It is retained properly, and there is no bulge.
I also needed to change the chime soundfile from a Wabco E2 to a Nathan P3. Having a QSI programmer, this also was easy. Now looking for the right set of horns.
Hal
I found another shell on ebay so i'll try removing the door hinges
did you just use a razor knife ?
TerryinTexas
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Hold on a second here. The last time I checked, MRC and LokSound decoders also have seperate notches with the proper transition sounds.
I have several MRC decoders, with the multiple engine sounds, SD60, SD70, Alco, and EMD 567. When I programmed them for EMD 567, there was no transition sounds, and it was a lousy sounding EMD 567, compared to the Soundtraxx.
You are right though, that the E units had two 567s. But an E unit, or two GP-9s sounded pretty much the same.
davidmbedard I would go for a LokSound decoder for an E unit because it is the only one that actually sounds like a dual-EMD567. David B
I would go for a LokSound decoder for an E unit because it is the only one that actually sounds like a dual-EMD567.
David B
Ya I thought of that after I posted it, the Soundtraxx one is only for one motor so is more correct for a GP or SD or F than an E-unit. That being said, I'm not sure everyone would be able to tell the difference, especially if you ran an A and B unit together (or an A-A) unit and had sound in both. If you shop around you could probably find two Soundtraxx LCs for the cost of one LokSound or Tsunami.
http://www.dcctrain.com/shop/
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
Phoebe Vet I'd love to take credit for that install, but I didn't do it. It was done by Alex at DCC Train. And you are right, he does great work.
I'd love to take credit for that install, but I didn't do it. It was done by Alex at DCC Train.
And you are right, he does great work.
Do you have a link to his site ?
Phoebe Vet Decoder was $109 Sounds great
Decoder was $109
Sounds great
Nice clean looking install !
Thanks for the photo !
I'm still trying to figure out why mine has almost all Red wires
Most any 1st generation EMD sound decoder will work. I put a Soundtraxx LC ("low cost" decoder) and a 1" speaker in mine...well in my case I put it in an E7B. I put the speaker and enclosure in the space where the cab would go. But there should be plenty of room in the A unit too. Last I checked the LC's run around $50 or so.
Phoebe Vet I just put an ESU LokSound 3.5 EMD 567 2 in a P2K E8.
I just put an ESU LokSound 3.5 EMD 567 2 in a P2K E8.
Pictures ?
Price ?
Sound Quality ?
Speaker location ?
Don't be shy !
I have a BLI E-7 with factory sound and I thought a P2K E-8 Shell would be an easy swap
Nope the E-8 shell has operating side doors that have a frame work and spring on the inside
and since the E-7's frame isn't cut out for the doors it makes the shell bulge out
also the E-8 frame has 2 extensions at the bottom front that allow the cow catcher to attach
because it is seperate
The E-7 cow catcher and body are all one piece
soooooooooooooooooooooooo since i only paid $40 for the E-8
I thought it might be easier to convert it to DCC and sound
rather than hack up the shell
Ideas ?
The P2k Looks like an early version because ther is no 8 pin plug
might be enough room at the back on top for a speaker