Kato GS4 DCC install with Kato EM13 decoder. Easy, right?

[woodone]

John, If by chance you can't come with the insulator shims PM me. But first CALL them and ask for them-   They will send you a set, I am sure.

I don't use them!!  They are like a doctor giving you a band aid  when you have a broken leg !

I perfer to remove the motor and add wires between the decoder and the motor. More work but a sure fix.

[jsloane]

Hi, Everyone,

My trouble may be one that differs from the usual.  I'm new to this list but an old timer in Model Railroading (55+ years).  I was HO all my life and switched to N AND DCC in 2002, the smartest thing I ever did besides marrying my bride .  I obtained a 4449 GS-4 AND another GS-4 with DCC driver insulation and all necessary inventory for conversion to DCC.  I have the two EM13 decoders, and am willing to settle for their limitations at this point,  The problem I have is that I wrote to the email address given on the Kato site to obtain the driver insulators, but it seems that "Leon" has failed to respond.  Is it too late for me??  I had to deal with learning to live with a severe disability over the past couple of years, and I am just easing back into the hobby, which has NOT been easy.  I am humbly asking if you guys have any extra "kits" of the insulators that I might purchase.  If KATO ITSELF can't/won/t help, I feel I need to make friends with you guys and ask for whatever you may have that I may get hold of!

Even if I get no insulation kits from anyone for proper DCC insulation/operation, Let me thank all of you for reading my request.  Email me at: [e-mail] if you have any KATO GS-4 DCC kits you want to sell!

Thanks,

John

[CSX Robert]

Jacktal

Kato have designed it to be DCC ready and have gone a little further by offering a specially designed decoder for it,and at a decent price.BUT...this decoder is a motion control decoder only

Actually, the decoder was not designed for the GS4, the GS4 was designed to accept the already available decoder. The decoder was designed for Kato bullet trains and similar Kato trains that have a powered car in the middle and head and tail lights at each end. Since the powered car on these train sets do not have head lights, the decoder was designed without function outputs and a separate function only decoder was designed to go in the end cars to control the head and tail lights.

[tbdanny]

Hi,

Do you have one of the first-run GS-4's?  These can be identified by the roadnumber 4449 and a lack of insulation between the rear two driving wheels.  If you do have one of these, you will need to install the Kato GS-4 DCC retrofit kit.

What it sounds like to me is that the power pickup may be shorting the frame, which is putting power directly through the motor outputs and frying your decoders.

Hope this helps,

tbdanny

[Jacktal]

I own the same model and indeed,these Kato GS4's are beautiful models.However,they do have a most irritating (for me) design flaw.Kato have designed it to be DCC ready and have gone a little further by offering a specially designed decoder for it,and at a decent price.BUT...this decoder is a motion control decoder only.It will never control the headlight/mars light assembly as these are handled by another board in the nose of the loco,wich is directly linked to track power via a part of the frame wich is somehow insulated from the rest of the loco's frame.

This results in the lights glowing whenever the loco is sitting on a powered (DC or DCC) section of track.Disappointing,to say the least,from an otherwise jewel of a model.I'm surprised to see that Kato hasn't dealt with this issue wich may to some extent make it an undesirable model for some.

I'm currently working on a DCC retrofit on mine but have encountered a different problem (see "TSU-750 failure" post,a few pages back) in fitting a DCC/sound decoder.I'm presently awaiting my LHS's response to this warranty issue.I'm still not decided as to how I will have the lights controlled as I see two possible solutions.The first one (simple) would be a semi-control where I would link the board in parallel with the motor leads in wich case they'd glow when the engine is moving and total control wich means that I'd have to run wires from the board to the decoder's headlight leads,wich is somewhat more complicated as room is at a premium in this engine.In both cases,this board has to be isolated from its original link to the frame (easy,two small brass clips).But when all this is finished,I should have a great loco,powerful and smooth as well as looking and sounding great.

[trainman07011]

I have a beautiful new Kato GS4 and the Kato decoder to go with it.  I followed the instructions included with the loco and the installation was a breeze!  Then, I couldn't get it to program.  "Must be a bad decoder", I thought.  So I exchanged the decoder. 

I received the second decoder today.   I installed the decoder and I cannot get it to work.  When I finish, the decoder looks exactly like the picture in the instructions.  All the contacts seem to be made.  It acts just like the first one in that when I program it, it "buzzes" and seems to receive the commands.  I tried both 2 and 4 digit addresses. The lights work but will not turn on and off.  In DCC it will not run. I have tried programming on two systems. 

When I return the original board it runs fine in DC.  I now believe that both decoders are OK and I am doing something wrong.

What can I be doing wrong?